67 replies to this topic

[Grrlartist]

Thanks PackRat and Rusty! Yeah, the blue appliances really surprised me ~ I'v never seen that color before, either, especially in a rig of this age. 

 

So, I've been trying to read up on the GVWR and payload thing. I found this:

 

http://www.ford-truc...d-capacity.html

 

But they're talking about paying an extra registration fee in some states to get a truck rated for a higher payload? I understand why the state might want to charge extra for a heavier vehicle, but how does the fee make it safe to operate the truck with more payload?? Is the rating really that arbitrary, or are they kind of saying "you can carry more but you'll pay for it eventually"? I took a shot of my door sticker:

 

 

Am I reading this correctly that my truck is only rated for 600 lbs.? My mechanic says that I should be good and safe up to about 1500, but I have no idea where he's getting that number. Yes, the truck is sposed to be a 1/2 ton. I have used it in the past to tow a 24 foot Boles Aero about 300 miles and it didn't bat an eyelash. As far as the Alaskan, I have not driven it extensively, but it sits well and doesn't feel overburdened. I know the former owner of this truck used it now and then for some fairly heavy hauling, but I don't know if anything nonstock was added. Advice?

 

Thanks again for all the great info. I am reading up on the forum, trying to absorb as much as possible. If I ask a quesiton that has been answered elsewhere, just point me in the right direction or tell me what to search for. I appreciate it!

 

Jo 

Edited by Grrlartist, 13 January 2017 - 01:51 AM.

[Rusty]

Jo,

 

Towing and carrying are two different animals entirely.  When you're towing you're essentially "pulling" with a tongue weight that's determined by how you "loaded" your trailer and varies significantly.  The weight of your camper "dry" is around 1200-1400 pounds depending on additions and modifications over the years.  Smaller Alaskan varieties were built but they were rare.

 

You will find that your camper will test your trucks suspension and make it somewhat "interesting" to steer.  If you're set on that truck....upgrade your rear springs, add some overload leaves and a set of airbags.  The difference between 1/2 and 3/4 ton extends much further than that...well into the gears, rear end, axle sizes et al which makes a 3/4 ton more suitable to carry the camper load for longer periods of time and under different conditions.

 

Rating a truck differently for purposes which suit your use will not change applications under which the truck is rated by the manufacturer. A recent article regarding Canadian Mounties relying entirely on the Manufacturers rating with no consideration to owner modifications for service was a good example of how the authorities can use those figures when justifying "overloaded" conditions observed...so be careful.

 

I have a 3/4 ton which is rated by Ford for 1250 pounds....which means I drive it overloaded most of the time... I've had well over 3500 pounds in it for short periods....and very possibly more than that......though I wasn't interested in getting it weighed at the time.

Edited by Rusty, 13 January 2017 - 04:23 PM.

[PackRat]

Jo...your GVWR is 6000 pounds.....but they show you that you can't overload the front or rear axels any more than 3100 lbs on the front axle and 3500 lbs on the rear. That means you can't just put ALL the weight on the rear axle.

 

I have an F-250 3/4 ton and it has a very similar tag....

 

If you can check around where you live, you might find a place that can weigh not only the whole truck, but give you an independent weight on the front and rear axles. With the AK on board and at least a full tank(s) of gas you can get an idea if you are over loaded.

 

It would be simpler if the tag says "Your truck weighs 4700 lbs dry" (no fuel) and then you could add maybe 1500 lbs for you, your gear and the AK and see if your GVWR was exceeded. Unfortunately they don't give you that info.

 

For now, if the AK is off the truck, then fill 'er up with gas and go get weighed and then add 1500 lbs and you will know if you are over the 6000 lbs rating. Have them give you front, rear and both weights.

 

If the AK is on the truck, then fuel up and go get weighed....front axle, rear axle and BOTH axles at the same time and let us know what you find out.

 

 

As noted, the more weight to the rear axle, the chances are the steering will get a little squirrely and that isn't good.

[PackRat]

Your VIN tag had the actual VIN number blacked out so I could not decipher it but you can...google "Ford Truck VIN Tag" and there are a couple posts there. From that you can learn who, where, when it was made, engine size, fuel, etc. from that and much more. That will help you further with knowing what this truck has/hasn't and perhaps if it was a "special order" or just one off the line.

[Ripperj]

Looks good. I would take others advice and replace the seals and caulk as best you can, then just use the heck out of it. Typically when you start poking at the rot(decay you mention) it turns into a major project.

[Grrlartist]

About those cable jacks ~ yes, it's what it came with, and when I saw the seller jacking up the camper on a very uneven dirt driveway, I admit my heart stood still.... it was swinging this way and that and I was really worried we wouldn't be able to get my truck squarely under it before the jacks decided to take a dive! So, corner jacks.... I'm not planning to take the camper off the truck anytime soon, but what do I need to be able to do it safely?

[PackRat]

surprisingly enough, the cable jacks were supplied for years at Alaskan....because safely used they are OK. Having said that, I loaded/unloaded my 8 ft. NCO in the driveway on concrete...and it was pretty near LEVEL. It works easiest with two people and one calls out the revolutions to the other so they are in sync with hoisting it up or down.

 

It is VERY important to pull the truck out or back it in STRAIGHT so you aren't pushing the AK with the truck...which is a recipe for disaster. It is a tossup on being the person driving or the being the "spotter" when you do this. I preferred to be the spotter....making sure the AK was high enough so it didn't bottom out when moving the truck and equally as critical; getting the AK dead center in the truck bed.

 

If you don't plan on dismounting the AK then the corner jacks aren't as high a priority as new butyl sealant everywhere. By the way, did you happen to inspect the BOTTOM of the AK when it was going into your truck for damage/rot? You will read posts about getting it up off the truck floor to keep moisture away from the AK plywood bottom. How are you going to anchor it?

[Grrlartist]

Actually, I kinda thought that the fact that the camper didn't go flying was a testament to those jacks being a lot better than they seemed at first glance. Why he wanted to do moving the camper there instead of any number of safe, level, and paved places is a mystery to me. Anyway....

 

The camper is currently sitting up on 2 x 6's (the flat way) in the bed of my truck. We did that because I had read that the camper was likely to bottom out on the side walls of the truck and put strain on the walls, but sounds like it will maybe help prevent rot as well. I did not check for rot on the bottom, but there's a clearance of an inch or so at the bottom now ~ would I be likely to be able to see damage at the edges?

 

I found mounting holes in the bottom of the camper after the Alaskan was already in place, and I was wondering if I would be able to bolt it down without removing it. It appears to be dead center side to side, but I think it could scoot forward an inch or two for a better fit. We removed the sheet metal lip at the front edge (I do still have it) because it didn't allow the tail gate to close, so now there's a bit of slack front to back. I was planning to put closely spaced wooden slats on the inside of the tail gate to make a nice flat porch and something to attach some scissor steps to. The bed of my truck is high ~ about 26" off the ground even with the Alaskan on there ~ so steps are a necessity.

 

Would those bolts (with appropriately large fender washers) be enough to fasten the camper down? It didn't really seem like enough to me.....

 

Oh yes, the first 30 ft. roll of butyl tape arrived today, but I'll probably need more than that, right?

Edited by Grrlartist, 14 January 2017 - 04:42 AM.

[Willys Addict]

Take a look at my gallery I am coming to the end of my rebuild of a late 60's it will show wiring insulation and the fun of rot, let me know if I can help.Remember there are more than one type of butyl tape use, the mixed type as it is stickier and forms better, I buy mine from one dealer and its been great coming home from a trip I needed more and purchased it from another supplier and hated it it was dry non sticky and did not form as well. found it was the pure butyl. My recommendation for mounting is don't bolt it to the floor more holes in your box and more people for removal and installation, you have more flexibility the other way.As Rusty mentioned the door latchs at Vintage trailer supply even though I had to pay exchange they were worth it.show a picture of your lights and we may be able to help with the wiring. Also is there a tag at the back top half of the unit, that shows were its built, if so we my be able to figure the age. Good luck it looks great.

[Grrlartist]

Okay, I just did one of those free online VIN decoders for my truck, and it states that curb weight on the truck is 4050 lbs. Is that reliable information, or do I still need to get the truck weighed? I didn't see anything else in the report that looked meaningful, but I can paste the screenshot here if anybody wants to see them.