Adding a Second Battery
#1
Posted 10 October 2023 - 01:26 PM
First night using the heater in my Hawk and I think the power got low. It only dropped below 12 very momentarily but it seems the low power may be the reason my heat kept shutting off in the night. I can’t do the lithium battery swap right now but I think I can pull a second AGM. I’m not very electrically savvy so would like some guidance on the best way to add the second battery for better power capacity.
#2
Posted 10 October 2023 - 01:46 PM
If your current battery is aged, I recommend you replace it at the same time you add a second. Best practice is to use the same age, size and brand. Twelve volt batteries need to be connected in parallel. That means the positive terminals are connected together, and the negative terminals are connected together. The preferred way to connect the camper wiring is for the camper positive wire going to the positive terminal of one battery, and camper negative going to the negative terminal of the other battery.
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I am haunted by waters
#3
Posted 10 October 2023 - 01:56 PM
#4
Posted 10 October 2023 - 02:20 PM
Seems simple enough. The battery is new, the camper is only a few months old and battery hasn’t been used a ton. I’m just looking to extend usage time and not be left with no power in the boondocks. Can I get away with a different brand with same specs?
I suspect you can, but best practice is to have a matching pair.
How are you charging your batteries, any other load on the system (refrigerator)?
I am haunted by waters
#5
Posted 10 October 2023 - 02:30 PM
A different cause for this issue could be the heater itself. Have you seen the threads on removing the duct work?
2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/
Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/
Building out an electrical system - So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper? - Electrical, Charging, Solar, Batteries and Generators - Wander the West
#6
Posted 10 October 2023 - 02:42 PM
Just with the alternator when truck is on.I suspect you can, but best practice is to have a matching pair.
How are you charging your batteries, any other load on the system (refrigerator)?
Edited by Jzack605, 10 October 2023 - 02:43 PM.
#7
Posted 10 October 2023 - 02:44 PM
Someone on a Facebook group mentioned the duct work as well. I removed the small bit of duct by the vent. I have not seen the threads though, I’ll try to find them.Don’t underestimate the value of adding a real tool for monitoring your battery’s SOC (state of charge). A volt meter often won’t cut it. The Victron Smart Shunt is a good way to go.
A different cause for this issue could be the heater itself. Have you seen the threads on removing the duct work?
#8
Posted 10 October 2023 - 02:55 PM
Just with the alternator when truck is on.
Oh. That "might" be an issue, especially with newer trucks and their "smart" alternators. Get the shunt based SOC meter first, then you can see just how (in)effective your charging is right now. It can be fixed, but let's be sure about the cause of the problem first.
2012 ATC Puma Shell build - https://www.wanderth...012-puma-build/
Power considerations thread - https://www.wanderth...e-power-scotty/
Building out an electrical system - So, you want to setup a good electrical system in your camper? - Electrical, Charging, Solar, Batteries and Generators - Wander the West
#9
Posted 10 October 2023 - 02:56 PM
What Vic said…
I am haunted by waters
#10
Posted 10 October 2023 - 03:09 PM
So the display on the deep sea is not a reliable way to determine battery level?Oh. That "might" be an issue, especially with newer trucks and their "smart" alternators. Get the shunt based SOC meter first, then you can see just how (in)effective your charging is right now. It can be fixed, but let's be sure about the cause of the problem first.
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