418 replies to this topic

[ScottBailey]

here is the sloppy job i did, but it turned out ok. the top row is the back, and the bottom row is the front.

We are usually or own worst critics. It looks real good from here. Did you get any input from Marty and crew?

[The Saints]

No, as it ended up, it was so easy I did not feel it worth asking them about it. It worked great on our camp trip, and I feel it a success. I still need to remove the fasteners and seal them, so I am not quite done yet.

[jimmythec]

Thanks for the starting the great thread an the shocks. The info here helped me a lot and It looks like some of the other guy's also. Happy camping!

[Alex]

Thanks for posting this, great information.
A couple questions.
1) Do we just use metal tap screw to secure the bracket or we drill through and use a nut and bolt?
2) Since we are mounting the gas strut on the outside and exposed to elements, can these struts last in this type of application?

Thanks!!

[dsrtrat]

Alex,
I used #10x3/4 inch stainless standard point sheet metal screws. I drilled a 3/32 pilot hole through the track and one side of the frame member. I used a mastic strip under the bracket for a seal. I put an offset bracket on the bottom and a flat bracket on the top for better alignment of the strut.

As for how long they will last I will have to wait and see. Pretty easy and cheap to replace as needed.Also easy to remove if you have to drive in winter conditions. I may take them off when I don't have a load on the top, just have to try it for a while. I figured for less than 100 dollars in parts I don't have much to lose.

Thanks for posting this, great information.
A couple questions.
1) Do we just use metal tap screw to secure the bracket or we drill through and use a nut and bolt?
2) Since we are mounting the gas strut on the outside and exposed to elements, can these struts last in this type of application?

Thanks!!

Attached Thumbnails

• 

[Alex]

Alex,
I used #10x3/4 inch stainless standard point sheet metal screws. I drilled a 3/32 pilot hole through the track and one side of the frame member. I used a mastic strip under the bracket for a seal. I put an offset bracket on the bottom and a flat bracket on the top for better alignment of the strut.

As for how long they will last I will have to wait and see. Pretty easy and cheap to replace as needed.Also easy to remove if you have to drive in winter conditions. I may take them off when I don't have a load on the top, just have to try it for a while. I figured for less than 100 dollars in parts I don't have much to lose.

Thanks! Your are right, I can take the structs off when not in use.

[The Saints]

Alex, like dsrtrat I used screws. Mine were self tapping, but I predrilled a cheater pilot hole. Then this weekend I plan on removing them and adding silicone sealant. I know I should have done it when I installed them, but time was an issue and I want to do a complete, good job.

[Alex]

Alex, like dsrtrat I used screws. Mine were self tapping, but I predrilled a cheater pilot hole. Then this weekend I plan on removing them and adding silicone sealant. I know I should have done it when I installed them, but time was an issue and I want to do a complete, good job.

Scott,
Thanks for the tip on silicon sealant.
Alex

[Dughlas Stiubhart]

Thanks for the tips, photos and information from all you guys!

[dsrtrat]

I should have added that on the bottom front brackets I used 3/16 pop rivets rather han screws.I didn't want the screws sticking through into the matress area.Use blind end rivets if you can find them, they are more waterproof.
Dsrtrat

Thanks for the tips, photos and information from all you guys!