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Quick removal camper jacks?


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#51 Atlin

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 08:04 PM

Has anyone just welded the nuts onto the jack or jack brackets?  Would eliminate dropped nuts and the need for a second wrench.  Might have to repaint the brackets.


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#52 Rafter C

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 02:07 PM

Off the subject a bit, but after removing the jacks, how do you lift the truck in the event you need to change a tire on the road? Thankfully I have not had to do this but if I do, I would use the camper jacks along with the OEM bottle jack to change a tire. I have not tried the OEM bottle jack for my Tundra but am assuming it won't have the "oomph" needed to lift the back end with the camper loaded. Thoughts?

Aftermarket hydraulic bottle jack........ Can't imagine ever traveling without one. You get way more lifting ability, and they can be in a smaller package than OEM. Keep the OEM too.


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#53 Rafter C

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Posted 25 August 2017 - 02:09 PM

KMACAFEE Said

My wife has suggested that I am guilty of this.....

I think that goes on here a lot....


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Build Thread: http://www.wanderthe...r-build-thread/

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#54 MattC

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 03:51 PM

After bolting and unbolting the 12 bolts on my jacks every weekend for the past few months, I built this set of plates and shoulder screws to make life easier. The plates are made from 3/8" x 2-1/2" 6061 aluminum from Mcmaster Carr. You'll need a six foot long section to make four plates, with enough left over for one extra in case you need it. The s/s shoulder screws are part number 90298A705. The shoulder screws will need modification on the lathe. (see attached drawing). The s/s nylon locknuts used to retain the shoulder screws are Mcmaster part 90101A243. I can't verify that this design will exactly fit all other applications, so I suggest that you make and fit a paper template first to see if you need to modify any part of the design.

Disclaimer : My camper is 4WC Fleet shell, so it is fairly lightweight compared to many others out there. This system may not work for everyone, and it is important that you determine the suitability of this design for your own specific purpose before proceeding.

When I went to post this and did a search, I noticed that someone else had a very similar idea. At least for me, this system feels pretty solid and definitely saves a lot of time and knuckles. I realize that not everyone out there has a mill and a lathe in their garage, but you might find a local shop to help you out on this..

I have been kicking around the idea of making my jacks "quick release" and this is a great example of what I was also thinking, and very well executed.

 

I was thinking about using more of a hitch and receiver type interlocking set up.

 

or as posted above making the 2 half's like a giant hinge, to drop a pin down through 


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#55 MattC

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Posted 13 November 2017 - 12:15 PM

My new camper has the bracket welded to the jacks.

Everything I have had in the past has been the clamp style.

these are much better, if I do make something, it will be much easier to do.


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#56 ETAV8R

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 02:10 AM

Has anyone just welded the nuts onto the jack or jack brackets?  Would eliminate dropped nuts and the need for a second wrench.  Might have to repaint the brackets.

I have stripped several of the bolts so not sure welding would be a good idea until you absolutely know you're not gonna run into something like that.


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Founder of D.E.R.P. Desert Exploration & Research Project. A camp proper is a nomads biding place. He may occupy it for a season or only for a single night, according as the site and its surroundings please or do not please the wanderers whim- Horace Kephart.

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#57 ntsqd

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 02:18 AM

Welding on hardware is generally frowned upon. Yea, I know it's done all of the time, but that doesn't make it right. When I want fixed female threads in something I drill and tap.


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#58 ETAV8R

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 09:02 AM

Gonna resurrect this thread. Have you used these yet? Do they clear the side of the camper and/or jacks? I went with a smaller size.


Edited by ETAV8R, 12 February 2018 - 12:12 PM.

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Founder of D.E.R.P. Desert Exploration & Research Project. A camp proper is a nomads biding place. He may occupy it for a season or only for a single night, according as the site and its surroundings please or do not please the wanderers whim- Horace Kephart.

2009 4x4 Tacoma Access Cab-The Gini

2013 Silver Spur Finch Shell- The Oxcart/Gini's Burden-

http://www.wanderthe...ory/#entry83606


#59 ETAV8R

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 08:42 PM

I picked up some grade 8 hardware and tried two different types/sizes of those knobs. 2nd type works great. I've had only two bolts on any corner at various times due to other bolts breaking because the threads get damaged. Never felt uncomfortable about it. Last night put on the new hardware and knobs. Helps having a McMaster Carr on the way to work.

The parts I used are:

These don't work: https://www.mcmaster...993k85/=1bjidgp

5993k850l.gif

 

 

This worked great: https://www.mcmaster...715k76/=1bjido8

57715k760l.gif


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Founder of D.E.R.P. Desert Exploration & Research Project. A camp proper is a nomads biding place. He may occupy it for a season or only for a single night, according as the site and its surroundings please or do not please the wanderers whim- Horace Kephart.

2009 4x4 Tacoma Access Cab-The Gini

2013 Silver Spur Finch Shell- The Oxcart/Gini's Burden-

http://www.wanderthe...ory/#entry83606


#60 billharr

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Posted 14 February 2018 - 12:00 AM

Ok I ordered 

Davies Thermoplastic Four Arm knob, Flute Rim, Threaded Through Hole, 3/8"-16 Thread Size X 1/2" Thread Length, 2-1/4" Diameter (Pack of 10)

from Amazon $14.90.  Got some flange nuts and 2 1/2" bolts at Ace Hardware. Tighten the jack clamps using the flange nuts upside down. See picures for details. Saves a ton of time taking the jacks on and off. 

 

 

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