Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Furnace won't light


  • Please log in to reply
60 replies to this topic

#31 leadsled9

leadsled9

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 935 posts
  • LocationLivermore, CA

Posted 04 November 2010 - 05:04 PM

My furnace burner has always worked fine, too, until now...but I said the same thing about the refrigerator until a couple of months ago. Posted Image


Same experience for me with the fridge.

The burner on the furnace has to be much larger. Maybe it just takes longer for the corrosion to build up on it to the point of causing problems.
  • 0

2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.


#32 natjwest

natjwest

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 312 posts
  • LocationPortland Orygun

Posted 04 November 2010 - 05:52 PM

Will do.
My furnace burner has always worked fine, too, until now...but I said the same thing about the refrigerator until a couple of months ago. ;)


Since you had two "failures" in a few months' time, could that be an indicator of some larger crud buildup? Does anyone know a way to flush the propane lines clean?

And to update everyone on the status of my original post in this thread, my furnace still won't light, but I've been busy doing other fall activities so haven't spent any time doing the suggestions in this thread.
  • 0
FWC-Owning Human

#33 UglyScout

UglyScout

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 405 posts
  • LocationNewberg, OR

Posted 04 November 2010 - 07:03 PM

I've had my entire furnace out twice... Don't ask.

I've got an older Atwood 8516-II so your experience may differ. All the work is done through the outside door. The hardest part in removing the burner is disconnnecting and reconnecting the gas lines. Once that is done you need a long 5/16" nutdriver or socket to get the sheet metal screws out and the whole thing slides out. Use a headlamp to see in the furance to find the screws.

I tried purging my propane lines with compressed air - I have no idea if it worked. But I was able to purge the valve/burner combo deal with air and I know that worked.
  • 0
2002 Chevy 2500HD 1993 Four Wheel Grandby

#34 UglyScout

UglyScout

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 405 posts
  • LocationNewberg, OR

Posted 07 November 2010 - 04:44 AM

What model furnace does yours have?

I went a few rounds with my furnace and have now had the entire furnace out 2x and replaced way too many parts... But it works awesome now!!!


ARGGGHHHHHH!!! I spoke too soon.

I was all pumped up to hit an out of the way campsite that I have actually wanted to go to for years. This weekend was going to be one of the last days it would be open before it was closed by snow -- Anyway I get there, get the camper set up, turn on the furnace. Nothing, 3 cycles and it quits. Reset via pulling the fuse, 3 cycles, nothing.... Seeing as how it was going to be about 20 degrees or less over night, there is already snow on the ground and the wind is howling, and I have a 10 month old along, I cry uncle and head for home. Part way back we stop for dinner and I try the furnace again - it lights and works like a champ! ARGHHH!!

The only difference between the 2 locations, about 6000 feet in elevation. It works fine at my house at 200', a few weeks ago at the beach at 5', at our dinner spot at about 400' - but at 6000' I got nothing.

So is it the pressure regulator?
  • 0
2002 Chevy 2500HD 1993 Four Wheel Grandby

#35 MarkBC

MarkBC

    The Weatherman

  • Site Team
  • 6,602 posts
  • LocationBend, Oregon

Posted 07 November 2010 - 04:56 AM

ARGGGHHHHHH!!! I spoke too soon.
Anyway I get there, get the camper set up, turn on the furnace. Nothing, 3 cycles and it quits. Reset via pulling the fuse, 3 cycles, nothing....
So is it the pressure regulator?


So, the sparker/igniter is clicking but the flame doesn't go -- is that the symptom? Or is the igniter not even clicking?
  • 0

FWC Hawk (2005) on a Ford F250 Supercab, 6.8L V10 gas (2000)


#36 Phird05

Phird05

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 274 posts
  • LocationCrested Butte, CO

Posted 07 November 2010 - 02:56 PM

ARGGGHHHHHH!!! I spoke too soon.

I was all pumped up to hit an out of the way campsite that I have actually wanted to go to for years. This weekend was going to be one of the last days it would be open before it was closed by snow -- Anyway I get there, get the camper set up, turn on the furnace. Nothing, 3 cycles and it quits. Reset via pulling the fuse, 3 cycles, nothing.... Seeing as how it was going to be about 20 degrees or less over night, there is already snow on the ground and the wind is howling, and I have a 10 month old along, I cry uncle and head for home. Part way back we stop for dinner and I try the furnace again - it lights and works like a champ! ARGHHH!!

The only difference between the 2 locations, about 6000 feet in elevation. It works fine at my house at 200', a few weeks ago at the beach at 5', at our dinner spot at about 400' - but at 6000' I got nothing.

So is it the pressure regulator?


I too had this happen only a few times but it seemed to happen after not using the furnace for some time, What I assumed was maybe a "vapor lock" of sorts. What I did was leave the main valve on the tank in the on position and loosen the main fitting on the tank as if removing it. When I heard the pressure release I would tighten the fitting again. This solved the problem and I do this whenever it has been inactive and I don't have the problem anymore. Altitude should be a minimal issue. I live at 9,000' and it works 99.9% of the time. As I said it only happened a few times after it had been sitting too long.

I hope this may help.

Good camping! Paul
  • 0
2008 F-150 5.4L QC 4x4, ride rite air bags, 2009 Hallmark Milner LX

#37 UglyScout

UglyScout

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 405 posts
  • LocationNewberg, OR

Posted 07 November 2010 - 04:41 PM

So, the sparker/igniter is clicking but the flame doesn't go -- is that the symptom? Or is the igniter not even clicking?


The fan comes on for its pre-fire 15 seconds or whatever, the ignitor fires, the gas valve opens, you can hear it burn for 2 seconds, then it goes out. It does this 3 times and quits.

I have a new Dinosaur board and it appears to be working fine the led comes on, a new ignitor which below 6000' feet seems to be working fine, plenty of gas as the stove works fine and the furnace works at home. Plenty of power as it did the same thing with or without the truck running....

It worked 3 weeks ago just fine and I haven't done anything to it since.

A google search points to checking the regulator - I'm sure it is the factory unit from 1993. If it doesn't allow enough pressure it may not operate at elevation.
  • 0
2002 Chevy 2500HD 1993 Four Wheel Grandby

#38 Phird05

Phird05

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 274 posts
  • LocationCrested Butte, CO

Posted 07 November 2010 - 05:36 PM

The fan comes on for its pre-fire 15 seconds or whatever, the ignitor fires, the gas valve opens, you can hear it burn for 2 seconds, then it goes out. It does this 3 times and quits.

I have a new Dinosaur board and it appears to be working fine the led comes on, a new ignitor which below 6000' feet seems to be working fine, plenty of gas as the stove works fine and the furnace works at home. Plenty of power as it did the same thing with or without the truck running....

It worked 3 weeks ago just fine and I haven't done anything to it since.

A google search points to checking the regulator - I'm sure it is the factory unit from 1993. If it doesn't allow enough pressure it may not operate at elevation.


This is exactly the same problem I had. As I mentioned above just loosen the connection at the tank and let the pressure release. Then reconnect it.If you are having the same issue as I did it should fire for you.
  • 0
2008 F-150 5.4L QC 4x4, ride rite air bags, 2009 Hallmark Milner LX

#39 MarkBC

MarkBC

    The Weatherman

  • Site Team
  • 6,602 posts
  • LocationBend, Oregon

Posted 07 November 2010 - 05:42 PM

This is exactly the same problem I had. As I mentioned above just loosen the connection at the tank and let the pressure release. Then reconnect it.If you are having the same issue as I did it should fire for you.


Thanks for the suggestion. :)
One question/clarification, though: When you've had this problem (fixable by loosening the connection) was it only the furnace that was affected? 'Cause when I've had the sparking-but-won't-light problem the stove and propane frig worked OK (as far as I could tell), it was only the furnace with the problem... :huh:
  • 0

FWC Hawk (2005) on a Ford F250 Supercab, 6.8L V10 gas (2000)


#40 Phird05

Phird05

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 274 posts
  • LocationCrested Butte, CO

Posted 07 November 2010 - 10:32 PM

Thanks for the suggestion. :)
One question/clarification, though: When you've had this problem (fixable by loosening the connection) was it only the furnace that was affected? 'Cause when I've had the sparking-but-won't-light problem the stove and propane frig worked OK (as far as I could tell), it was only the furnace with the problem... :huh:


I believe so. The fridge was maintaining, but I never checked the stove, so I can't say whether it had the same problem. What you described though, with the furnace running for a few seconds and then shutting down sounded exactly like my problem. I don't even think about it anymore, as I just loosen the fitting, reattach it and leave for my trip. Once I do that it is never a problem on the road.

I hope this helps.
  • 0
2008 F-150 5.4L QC 4x4, ride rite air bags, 2009 Hallmark Milner LX




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users