34 replies to this topic

[DanoT]

When I talked to Marty at ATC a few months ago he suggested 6 legs to raise the camper was better than building a wood frame, but this would have been on a new build and not a retro fit.

[Ted]

When I talked to Marty at ATC a few months ago he suggested 6 legs to raise the camper was better than building a wood frame, but this would have been on a new build and not a retro fit.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by six legs, Dano. I picture legs as something in a vertical position, not across the truck bed in a horizontal position. Can you clarify?

[rich]

a word of warning. My original thought was to top the platform with plywood as well, but FWC does not recommend that. They said it is easier for moisture to get trapped under the camper that way - leading to rot. So if you do that, be sure to drill some holes for drainage and air flow.

Hmm, hadn't thought of that, was planning to put the top sheet on my platform tomorrow. Mine has a door to access storage at the end I wonder if that will provide enough air flow or if I should vent it.

I don't plan on having it permanently attached to the camper either. I will attache it with latches so it can be removed, so I could let it air out that way too.

[griz]

Wish I could help you out, Griz. There are some nice features on the new campers that I wouldn't mind having. But the price on the new ones are a lot higher than we paid and replacing ours isn't likely. Maybe if FWC offers 0% financing and matches $3000 of the down payment like Toyota is doing, we can work something out. I'll let you know.

I will be waiting too hear from u. Oops gotta run the phone is ringing......

[ntsqd]

Rich,
I suspect that part of the problem lies in water wicking in between top sheet of the spacer and the bottom of the camper. I see two options, seal the spacer wood to waterproof and then seal the top of the spacer to the bottom of the camper; or use same width strips of the plywood on top of the stringers ("furring strips") to get the spacer thickness that you need without creating two very large surfaces in contact with each other.

Capillary action is great when it works for you, and down-right sucks when it works against you. This sounds like it is the latter......


HTH

[simimike]

Ted, Congratulations on the new truck. A new truck is near the top of lifes neat things.

mike

[Ted]

Thanks, Mike. I learned from our Warner Mountain trip when my truck looked like someone dragged a rake down it and everyone else's looked fine - went with white this time

Another platform question. As ntsqd mentioned, capillary action comes with wood. So what about using one of these fake decking boards? I understand they don't have as much structural strength as real wood and need more supports when used for decking. But since these would be sitting on a solid surface, would they work for this situation?

[Stan@FourWheel]

I would think a piece of painted plywood would be just fine ?

As long at the plywood and the camper base are not stuck together wet for months & years you should be fine.

Most people are taking the camper off the truck often enough that wood rot really doesn't seem to be a problem (my personal opinion).

Just inspect the bottom of the camper floor every once in a while when you are loading / unloading the camper.

Keep a fresh coast of paint on the camper base and the plywood spacer.

I think it will be just fine.

No need to over think it or make it too complicated.

Sometimes simple can be a good thing.





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[Ted]

Hi Stan. I'll be in next Friday having the install done. Pretty sure my final design is going to be a cross hatch, something like lattice at 90 degree angles. I'll try to explain.

As Terry in your service department explained to me, the base of the camper that sits on the truck bed is not flat. It is a number of runners that are attached to the plywood floor of the camper, like rafters or beams. I want the boards I am putting under the camper to align with those so the camper has equal support. But truck beds have ridges built into the beds. And those ridges likely won't be spaced the same as the camper beams, which could lead to a gap between some of the supports and the camper. So I will add cross beams every foot or so that will sit on top of the bed's ridges and give a level surface for the camper supports. This will allow for lots of air flow and drainage.

Because the mount for my Jerry Can holder is screwed to the bottom of the camper, I need to raise the camper a little higher than the 2" Stan told me. 2x3's are 1&1/2" thick, so the cross hatch platform should give me 3" of lift, which is just about right.

[RJones]

Ted,

Sounds well engineered and don't forget to put up pics of the new truck with camper.