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Solar Install completed - thanks to members on this forum.


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#11 leadsled9

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:13 PM

I purchased some 10 awg (I know...overkill) wire from Solar Blvd to complete the battery wiring. I zip tied it and the temperature sensor wire to the existing factory wiring over the water tank to reach the battery. They have the two-strand (red and black) 10 awg wire encased in a tough outer sheath.

http://www.solarblvd...oduct_info.html

Here are a couple of pics of the wiring over the water tank.

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2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.


#12 leadsled9

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:27 PM

that seems like a great price for a 120W panel, where did you get it?


Here's the link. Note the markdown. It dropped $50 more last weekend. These panels were originally 600 smackers!

http://www.solarblvd...oduct_info.html
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2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.


#13 randygirl

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 06:57 PM

Ok, I went for it, bought the 120 watt panel for $222.

When I called solarblvd, they only had 3 left at that price, so I got one of them. That leaves 2 for the taking!!

leadsled, thanks for all the info. There is a marine store down the street that I plan to buy the 10awg wire from. Also need to see when I get it what I will need for mounting. Haven't decided yet how that will work.

I forsee some calls to FWC in my future!!
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2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 (LBZ) Duramax Diesel& 2002 Hawk, 2 dogs and a lust for adventure ;-) 


#14 leadsled9

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 07:05 PM

Ok, I went for it, bought the 120 watt panel for $222.

When I called solarblvd, they only had 3 left at that price, so I got one of them. That leaves 2 for the taking!!

leadsled, thanks for all the info. There is a marine store down the street that I plan to buy the 10awg wire from. Also need to see when I get it what I will need for mounting. Haven't decided yet how that will work.

I forsee some calls to FWC in my future!!


Congrats randygirl! This is a fun project.

FWC uses a in-house fabricated "Z" mount that runs the full length on both front and back of the panel...and mounts the panel with six #10 sheet metal screws (using 1/8" starter bit). I was at the factory a couple of weeks ago and got to inspect a solar install that they just completed on a Hawk.
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2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.


#15 brett13

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 07:36 PM

Question: If using the Z mount so that two sides of the rectangular panel will be solid from the panel to the roof, is it better to have the open sides in the front/back or on the sides? I'm thinking open in front/back to allow airflow over and under the panel instead of collecting bugs on the front and adding resistance. Thoughts?
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Once had 2007 Tundra TRD 4x4 5.7 SR5 w/ Firestone bags, Bilstein 5100s in front, Total Chaos shackles rear, 275/70/18 E rated Michelin LTX AT2
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#16 leadsled9

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 07:39 PM

Question: If using the Z mount so that two sides of the rectangular panel will be solid from the panel to the roof, is it better to have the open sides in the front/back or on the sides? I'm thinking open in front/back to allow airflow over and under the panel instead of collecting bugs on the front and adding resistance. Thoughts?


FWC has it mounted front/back. There is no air flow....but there is also no lift when you are driving 75 mph into 30 mph head wind. I don't think these things need much airflow. I'd be more concerned about vibration loosening up the screws and the panel flying off while I'm headed down the freeway.
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2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.


#17 leadsled9

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 08:06 PM

Ok, I went for it, bought the 120 watt panel for $222.


Did you also purchase the remote meter and remote temperature sensor?
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2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.


#18 brett13

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 09:33 PM

Did you also purchase the remote meter and remote temperature sensor?

What does the temp sensor do? Won't the controller automatically not overcharge the battery?
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Once had 2007 Tundra TRD 4x4 5.7 SR5 w/ Firestone bags, Bilstein 5100s in front, Total Chaos shackles rear, 275/70/18 E rated Michelin LTX AT2
2007 ATC Bobcat for sale

Now, just roaming around in a stock Land Cruiser (not stock for long though... bawahahha [evil laugh])

#19 randygirl

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 09:33 PM

Did you also purchase the remote meter and remote temperature sensor?



No, I only got the MPPT controller and the panel. Don't want to get to techy with all that stuff. I barely understand what I'm getting into with this.

What are the advantages of the temp sensor and remote meter?
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#20 leadsled9

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Posted 18 November 2010 - 11:01 PM

No, I only got the MPPT controller and the panel. Don't want to get to techy with all that stuff. I barely understand what I'm getting into with this.

What are the advantages of the temp sensor and remote meter?



I think this will answer both of the above questions.

The remote mount meter is essential for you to monitor what is going on with your system. The little led lights on the controller would be good enough to get a rough idea of whats going on....but since we are mounting the controller behind the wood paneling (I assume you are going to mount in the same place that FWC mounts them when doing a factory install) you can't see the controller. Therefore, you would have no idea what is happening. The meter is the only clue from the inside that the camper has a solar system. It is the only visible component from inside.

The meter is really cool. I can see how many volts/amps the panel is providing to the controller, the battery voltage, the watts being used etc. It's nice to know what is going on. For instance....right now my camper battery is fully charged..the watts displayed are 0. When I turn my stereo on I then see that 12 watts are being provided...turn on the fantastic fan and 30 watts are being provided, etc. The meter also provides for system diagnostics so you can troubleshoot problems. It's a really nice unit for what they charge.

The controller uses the battery temperature as a factor in calculating the best charge profile for your battery (hot less juice, cold more juice etc.). Since the controller is phyically mounted in a different location than the battery....the temperature of the battery could be different than the temperature at the controller. Maybe it's not enough difference to effect things much....or maybe it is....the manual for the controller strongly recommends the remote temperature sensor for applications where the controller is not mounted where the battery is located.
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2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.





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