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Tore Out Mounting Tiedown on Camper


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#11 pods8

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 02:39 AM

If it was me I'd either try to glue the piece back in or fill the divot with structurally thickened epoxy. Then do a metal plate sandwich that extends some beyond the damaged area as previously mentioned in the thread.
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#12 Stan@FourWheel

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 05:13 AM

samples for the moment

Attached Thumbnails

  • eye nut.jpg
  • eye nut ripping out.jpg
  • eye nut (with aluminum backing plate).JPG
  • eye nut in base.jpg

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#13 M1010 Mike

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 02:02 PM

Thanks for the pics Stan. That is basically what I was thinking of but I am going to sandwich a plate top and bottom. Then I am using Grade 8 bolts to hold the eye.

My plan is to reinforce all the mounts. 3 of them I can get to with no problems but the rear driver side is located inside the galley cabinets.

On this '04 Grandby X model, it looks like the front of the galley unscrews. If I pull this large panel, will I be able to access that one mount? I can't tell if it's below the heater or to the rear of the heater. Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks!
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#14 Alex

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Posted 24 May 2011 - 06:21 PM

Thanks for the pics Stan. That is basically what I was thinking of but I am going to sandwich a plate top and bottom. Then I am using Grade 8 bolts to hold the eye.

My plan is to reinforce all the mounts. 3 of them I can get to with no problems but the rear driver side is located inside the galley cabinets.

On this '04 Grandby X model, it looks like the front of the galley unscrews. If I pull this large panel, will I be able to access that one mount? I can't tell if it's below the heater or to the rear of the heater. Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks!

One thing to consider after you fix the mount it to get spring loaded tie-down to help to ease the stress on the mount.
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#15 M1010 Mike

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 01:25 AM

One thing to consider after you fix the mount it to get spring loaded tie-down to help to ease the stress on the mount.


I had thought about that as well but I seem to only find the Fastgun 45's which won't go short enough. I measured the one that came off and it's 11.25".

Any recommendations on ones that would be short enough?

Thanks.
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#16 pods8

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 02:16 AM

I had thought about that as well but I seem to only find the Fastgun 45's which won't go short enough. I measured the one that came off and it's 11.25".

Any recommendations on ones that would be short enough?

Thanks.


Check the fastgun derringers, they might work out for you, I believe a couple folks are running them around here.
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2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper


#17 M1010 Mike

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 02:38 AM

Check the fastgun derringers, they might work out for you, I believe a couple folks are running them around here.


Looking at the manufacturer's website, I can't really tell, are these "spring loaded" to absorb some shock or are they just quick disconnects? I don't need quick disconnects as the camper is not being removed from the truck unless I am having to do a repair. I would like something that will keep the camper in the bed yet not tear it apart like currently.

I am thinking of contacting Phoenix campers about their ratch strap method, since the strap would have a little give to it.

Keep the ideas coming.
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#18 Desert Rancher

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 03:25 PM

I have my Granby mounted with bolts through the floor. Have done this with two trucks that see a fair amount of dirt roads.

I use four 3/8 #5 bolts and a nylok nut. A large fender washer on the topside. On the bottom, I made a 3x5x3/16 steel plate along with a piece of 1/4 rubber (old bed liner) between the plate and the truck bed.

I have a rubber bed liner under the camper

I also placed foam pipe insulation on top of the bed rails, which helps eliminate sway and seals the wheel well space from dirt and water.

This has held up very well.
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#19 natjwest

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 09:09 PM

...
I also placed foam pipe insulation on top of the bed rails, which helps eliminate sway and seals the wheel well space from dirt and water.
...

Interesting that you have such tight tolerance on the bed rails. I know different trucks have different heights, but that sounds very close!
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#20 Desert Rancher

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Posted 25 May 2011 - 11:54 PM

Interesting that you have such tight tolerance on the bed rails. I know different trucks have different heights, but that sounds very close!


I have about a 1" gap on the Ford. My old Power Wagon had about 2".

The black foam, 1/2" pipe insulation compressed very well, http://www.homedepot...atalogId=10053.

I used a bead of RTV on the underside of the camper to hold it in place, otherwise it will work it's way out.

A buddy of mine had a large gap, about 3" and used some bigger diameter pipe insulation with good results.

It is really nice to keep the elements out of the wheel well space, which I use to store spare truck parts, seldom used items plus my house battery.
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Granbaby ridin' on an F250HD 4x4, International Diesel powered T444E "And camping will grant each man new hope...as sleep brings dreams of home"




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