23 replies to this topic

[OMP]

I have recently purchased a '97 NOC Alaskan Camper and have some structural problems
and am hoping that someone has the cure(s).

First off, the jack brackets have failed and bent to the point that the jacks will not lift properly.
I'm planning to remove them and redesign and fabricate new. Any good designs?

Secondly, the top portion has sagged onto the jack brackets damaging the bottom edge. This damage is
insignificant, however what has happened is that the top has forced the water overflow fitting between
the outer shell and the gas cabinet door frame thereby breaking the frame. Shimming the upper box 3/4"
now provides enough clearance so the frame can be rebuilt.

Thirdly, the lower box seems to be spreading, since the lower door has a 3/4" gap between the top of the
lower box and the door. How to repair?

And last, but not least, when offroad or going over speed bumps, the top box rocks and rolls. Is there
someway to stabilize or latch the top box to the lower?

[Buckwheat]

Thirdly, the lower box seems to be spreading, since the lower door has a 3/4" gap between the top of the
lower box and the door. How to repair?

I'm interested in hearing a answer on this as mine seems to have a similar problem with the gap at the top being 1/2" out farther.

Oh welcome to the boards

[MikeDahlager]

I have recently purchased a '97 NOC Alaskan Camper and have some structural problems
and am hoping that someone has the cure(s).

First off, the jack brackets have failed and bent to the point that the jacks will not lift properly.
I'm planning to remove them and redesign and fabricate new. Any good designs?

Secondly, the top portion has sagged onto the jack brackets damaging the bottom edge. This damage is
insignificant, however what has happened is that the top has forced the water overflow fitting between
the outer shell and the gas cabinet door frame thereby breaking the frame. Shimming the upper box 3/4"
now provides enough clearance so the frame can be rebuilt.

Thirdly, the lower box seems to be spreading, since the lower door has a 3/4" gap between the top of the
lower box and the door. How to repair?

And last, but not least, when offroad or going over speed bumps, the top box rocks and rolls. Is there
someway to stabilize or latch the top box to the lower?

Can you post some pictures of what is happening with your camper?
Mike

[wcj]

Can you post some pictures of what is happening with your camper?
Mike

[wcj]

I am on my third Alaskan, including a total rebuild on a late 60's NCO that my son now has in Alaska. Every one I have seen, including the 2004 I use now has the spreading lower door frame problem. It seems inherent in the basic design of the lower portion where the bottom half of the door removes the structural support and the spread starts. The best solution I have found is an adjustable draw hasp, one part mounts on the left side of the door frame, the hook mounts on the adjacent left edge of the door. The hasp connects to the hook and then when locked pulls the top of the door and the top of the door frame together. At that point things ride better, door locks work again and the seals around the door work. It doesn't cure the structural problem, but it sure helps and probably keeps it from getting worse.

Good Luck

[Rusty]

Another request for pictures...

the earlier models had steel angle iron across the bottom of the bottom door half. Even those over the years of flexing have cracked at the edges.

I'd particularly be interested in the jacks which were bent and the mounting platform for them. I've had Reico-Titan jacks and jack brackets on the camper for over 25 years and no bending at all.

As far as the spreading goes....that is the reason for the shims that support the seating area to the truck bed wall. We've been having that discussion about Roberts install. Without the shims, the lower section is unsupported and would allow the spread to happen.

[MikeDahlager]

Another request for pictures...

the earlier models had steel angle iron across the bottom of the bottom door half. Even those over the years of flexing have cracked at the edges.

I'd particularly be interested in the jacks which were bent and the mounting platform for them. I've had Reico-Titan jacks and jack brackets on the camper for over 25 years and no bending at all.

As far as the spreading goes....that is the reason for the shims that support the seating area to the truck bed wall. We've been having that discussion about Roberts install. Without the shims, the lower section is unsupported and would allow the spread to happen.

I agree. By not supporting the the overhang with the sides of the truck, the lower section will spread at the top due to the weight of the top section.
Mike

[Wooddog]

Lurking for a year while rebuilding a 75 10' cabover. I solved the flex problem at the back by rebuilding the floor 3" lower than original with an oak beam across the back between the new floor and the bottom of the door. With 2 layers of 3/4 rigid insulation down the threshold is only 1 1/2" higher than the floor. Not much flex there now. The original intent was to raise the camper to clear the roof of my '03 F-250. I'm 6'3" so having an extra inch and a half of headroom doesn't hurt (pun intended).

Cat's out of the bag now; you're gonna demand pictures. I have probably 300 but a very weak cellular internet connection so I'm not sure how that's gonna go...

Bruce

[Rusty]

Wooddog...this I would like to see.....being 6'3" and driving an 03 F-250....you might understand

[Wooddog]

I've just uploaded some pictures to my gallery; I'll do a proper post here soon...