Oh, I leave the struts in place. Never had a reason to take them off.Thanks for that post I needed to show my wife it is easy enough for her.
Is this the crank up jack I need
#11
Posted 31 October 2013 - 03:24 AM
#12
Posted 31 October 2013 - 12:29 PM
Mine doesn't have the struts. Will it still be easy to lift?
#13
Posted 31 October 2013 - 02:34 PM
Mine doesn't have the struts. Will it still be easy to lift?
My roof is pretty loaded when I use the crank. It's a pretty hefty lift without the crank but can be done. With nothing on the roof, the crank should still be easy without struts.
#14
Posted 01 November 2013 - 12:00 AM
Now that is what I wanted to hear. Thanks
#15
Posted 10 January 2014 - 11:47 PM
For anyone that is interested in a cranking roof assist, Guitar Center has them on sale now, through the end of January. The speaker stand is $89, the light stand is $99. I suspect that the center section is the same ( 80 pound capacity ) for either. Mine came in today, and it looks exactly like the version that FWC offers. This should make a lift with a canoe on top a bit easier on my rotator cuffs.
A question for anyone that has a cranking roof assist. Did you or FWC put some kind of a receptacle/cup on the lifting board to keep the crank from slipping out? If so, do you have any photos? I am thinking about going down to the hardware store and getting a couple of the scuff protectors that go under table legs, and screwing them to the lifting board, then just a simple piece of wood that has an indent for the floor. At the moment, the bottom of the crank is just the edge of the steel tube. Maybe I can find something that fits in or over the tube as well.
Edit: Unless I just missed it, FWC apparently does not offer this option anymore.
Edited by Wandering Sagebrush, 11 January 2014 - 12:04 AM.
I am haunted by waters
#16
Posted 11 January 2014 - 12:40 AM
I don't have any pictures but I ended up getting some wooden closet rod ends from Home Depot and screwing them into the lift boards. It works great. The end of the jack fits right in there perfectly.
Edited by Spitfire, 11 January 2014 - 12:40 AM.
#17
Posted 11 January 2014 - 12:46 AM
I don't have any pictures but I ended up getting some wooden closet rod ends from Home Depot and screwing them into the lift boards. It works great. The end of the jack fits right in there perfectly.
Thanks, don't worry about the photos, JHa6av8r sent me a couple of shots of his lifting boards. For the floor, the Bride suggested using the table base. I think that's a great idea.
I am haunted by waters
#18
Posted 11 January 2014 - 12:52 AM
My experience with this gadget has been terrific. I picked my crank lifter up from Best Buy ($80), same product but I think now a bit more expensive than from the music supply store.
After I removed the tripod, I took the plastic cap off one of the tripod legs and slipped it onto the bare metal tube at the bottom and then slid the capped extension piece onto the top (shimmed a bit so it fits snug). Now both ends are covered with a cap. I have had no slipping on the wooden cross piece on the ceiling, nor on the floor when lifting the roof. I set the lifter on a piece of carpet on the floor, but nothing between the lifter and the wood cross piece on the ceiling. No marring of any surface either.
My wife set up and took down the camper by herself while she camped on the Lost Coast in CA the end of last month. (She was our shuttle while we backpacked the Lost Coast Trail.) Without the crank lifter she couldn't lift either end of the pop-up, now it goes up for her literally "no sweat". We also use the crank to lower the roof, seems more controlled and less violent than the " collapse mode".
For us it has been a great and simple tool!
Edited by Otis, 12 January 2014 - 01:58 PM.
#19
Posted 11 January 2014 - 12:57 AM
I don't keep my table in my camper. If someone has pictures of how they have the ends covered and anything else that pertains to the lift please post.
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