26 replies to this topic

[PaulT]

Fundamentally, a fuse protects one time and then is replaced because it is destroyed in the process. A circuit breaker can be reset after it protects the circuit from an overload by removing the power, fixing the problem, resetting the breaker, and restoring the power.

Paul

[RC Pilot Jim]

Maybe FWC didn't fuse the circuits because of the circuit breaker? Will ask them that question next.

[Ethergore]

Isn't that circuit breaker between the separator and the battery? There would need to be another as the power leaves the battery and goes to accessories if that's the case.

[Stan@FourWheel]

Hey Jim

 

Thanks for posting.

 

FWC is very diligent about added fuses where ever & whenever possible.

 

We install a thermal breaker on the firewall of the truck.

 

In most all shell model campers these days we also add a thermal breaker fuse, an in-line fuse(s), or a small fuse block inside the camper (one or more of these, depending on what options are installed in the camper).

 

The power roof vent fan has its own fuse, so that has some added protection.

 

The interior lights and 12 volt outlets will need to be fused somewhere though. Whether it is an in-line fuse at the battery, a thermal breaker fuse, of a small fuse block, they should be installed.

 

FWC is getting away from the custom work requests like we did for your camper so we can have consistency on the production line of how & where items are installed.

 

There are also many things customers should be careful of when they start adding their own components inside the camper, or having aftermarket shops do additional wiring inside the camper. If people are going to build out the interior themselves, add refrigerators, solar systems, etc., it is very important that they also take precautions to do the wiring correctly and add fuses if & when necessary. Most shell model campers don’t come with much for wiring.

 

I would be glad to mail you a couple of in-line fuses that you can install at your 12v outlets or at the aux. camper battery terminal to help give you added protection if you like.

 

We want to make sure you are happy.

 

Just shoot me an e-mail and I will put some in the mail.

 

I will also Talk with Tom & the Production Team so they can review the shell model wiring if needed. From talking with the guys on the production line this morning, all shell model wiring and fuse details seem to be in order with new camper builds, as I expected.

 

But that said, FWC and myself want to say "Thank You" for bringing this topic up so we can review how things have been done in the past, how we are doing it today, and what we can do to make it better in the coming years.

 

Thanks Jim

 

See you soon at the So Cal Rally in Oct.

 

 

 

 

.

[RC Pilot Jim]

Thanks Stan for clearing up the confusion.

[PaulT]

Stan,
I got my Hawk this summer and would really like a wiring diagram, especially for the charging system. I have the Zamp Solar charge controller.

The backlight on the controller never goes off unless on shore power and the Iota is at full charge state. I have been throwing a cloth over the controller but Zamp says it the backlight should go out after a while. Wife says the nightlight is too bright.

Any ideas?
Thanks,
Paul

[DesertDave]

PaulT

My Zamp backlight also wouldn't turn off after dark. You can pull the fuse in the hot lead between the battery and controller, and then replace it after 10 count. The controller will go through a quick diagnostics routine, then the backlight will go off. This will work only in the dark. I wired in a switch to do the same thing to turn it off at bedtime.

[PaulT]

DesertDave,

 

Thank you for the tip. I guess I have a switch to mount and wire up.  I have been amazed how bright that backlight is at night.  I believe I'll use a momentary NC pushbutton switch. That way I won't forget to turn the controller back on.

 

searched for  "nc push button switch"  Found several at Amazon,

 

Now need to determine the current rating needed.  My panels are fused at 10 amps behind the controller but haven't found the controller to battery fuse yet.  Where was your fuse located?

 

Paul

[DesertDave]

PaulT,

 

I have the front dinette Grandby, so everything is shoved to the rear.  The fuse on the + lead to battery from controller on mine was right at the battery end of the lead..  Both lines from the roof panel to the controller are fused, fuses are behind controller against my sink.  The fuse in battery compartment was 10 amps, which is too small for the 15A rating of my controller.  I changed it up to a 15A, works fine with roof and portable panels (100W each) feeding single controller.

[PaulT]

Thanks, DesertDave.

 

I have the front dinette Hawk so mine sounds similar to yours.  I found the individual solar panel fuses. Mine are also 10 amps. I didn't see a fuse to the battery which is why I asked. Guess I need to check again.

 

The Blue Sea Circuit Wizard app recommends 30 or 35 amp rating for the fuse.  If you are running close to the 15 amps, the 15 amp fuse could blow after an hour or so of use.

 

Paul