Jerry Cans - The secret Weapon

Thom, unleaded-compatible cammed nozzles are available from Wavian. If they don't have them they're on Amazon. I agree about the screw-top versions, which significantly curtail the advantages of the NATO system. The cammed unit is expensive but worth the price.

Hi Jonathan,
That nozzle lacks the essential component that makes the Swiss nozzle work so fast. Note the internal vent tube. That vent allows air to get into the can much more rapidly than any other nozzle that I've seen or used. Also note the additional length of the flex section.


I did look up the nozzle in your post on amazon. Can buy knock-off's about $30. Might be one way to get the Swiss nozzle to work with unleaded restrictors, buy one of them for the 'funnel' on the end of it.
You're right about the Swiss extension—they're unsurpassed. But as long as the nozzle has the proper oblong vent it will drain the can pretty quickly.
Someone sent this to me as a way to syphon fuel ...happens to be out of a Nato can. Interesting idea in a pinch
I think that's what Craig is referring to. I'd need about a 10 foot long hose. Be careful in buying those, if you need one to do so know that not all of them fit thru an unleaded restrictor. From a can they're fine, but tank to tank won't work.

Given how fast my nozzle works I'm holding a full can of fuel for about 10 seconds. After that it gets progressively a lot lighter.
Learn this:
There is a lot of support online as well as many "youtube university" videos on how to work with it.

Then you can send drawing files to:

This is my first project having them do the cutting, but I've been driving a CAD station for a long time. I could barely more than buy the metal locally for what their quote was for the delivered cut-out parts.

The parts all fit together very nicely. Welding only the ends of the tabs pulled it up so tight that it almost rings.

With that, I don't understand the holes in the bend of the Das Mule part. That is not something that I would choose to do.
Jumping on this thread a little late, but...
After my 30 years of trying jerry cans of all shapes and sizes, I eventually bought 2 20L Waivan cans in 2019 and it was a total game changer. First time I've never smelled or spilt gasoline on a trip ever after getting them.
I had purchased them right before a long trip as my NATO cans were stolen from my garage. I did not have any way to mount them, so I did a test run and filled them up and put them in my camper. I left them in there for a week and was shocked there was absolutely zero smell. Since then, I've just secured them with ratchet tie downs and have not had any issues.
I suspect that there is some confusing use of terms going on.

To me, a "NATO can" is the same thing as the Wavian metal fuel can, and those look like this:

The distinctive features of this design are the weld seam that goes around the middle from top to bottom and back; and the sort-of oval opening that is offset to one side and is closed and sealed with lever. As best as I can piece together these used to be known as "gerry cans" because their design originated in Nazi Germany, The design has since been adopted by most all of Europe regardless of which side of the Iron Curtain the adopting country was on. Probably because the Nazis left them scattered all over the continent and it was easier to adopt a good design than to try to better it when there were so many of them floating around.

The Sceptre fuel can, which I gather some call a "NATO fuel can", but the only military that I've witnessed to use them is the U.S., looks like this:

The distinctive feature of these cans is that they are a rotary molded plastic can. They use a thread-on cap and nozzle.

The old school US metal fuel can were made by Blitz (& I'm sure others) and they look like this:

The two distinctive features of these cans is the screw-in cap and nozzle, and the pinch-weld seam around the bottom.

My own experience has been that the Blitz cans are a waste of time; that pinch-weld seam is where they notoriously fail and leak, don't bother.
The Sceptre cans are a good design, but their threaded cap & nozzle connection can fail them.
I have seen the Wavian cans take punishment beyond belief and not leak. With the Swiss nozzle they will empty their fuel faster than you'd think was ever possible and should be the can of choice.
I agree the blitz cans aren't very good but I've never had one leak from the seam. The gaskets dry out and leak. The only good think is they fit the slot on my spare tire carrier and thats a good enough reason for me to keep using them.
I never owned a Blitz can—or a Scepter—that didn't leak, and I've never owned a NATO can that did. No one will ever know why the U.S. military, which had access to a German fuel can early in WWII, didn't simply clone it as the Brits did, but instead tried to cut costs with the crimped seam and the screw top.
Mighty Dodge Ram said:
for the Wavians. I’m switching to the 10l (2.6 gal) flavor. Yes, they’ll take up more space for the equivalent storage amounts, but weigh less…
did u look into rotopax? and, what bracket did u use??
A friend went with Rotopax for water cans. The trip 2 weeks ago were their first outing. Nothing thicker would fit in his preferred location, but I'd give them a 2.5 out of 5 stars. Mostly because they're so narrow that they won't remain standing up on anything less than a perfectly level surface.
OTOH they worked well for his needs. We're contemplating making a spigot insert for them so that dispensing water from them is easier than their included spout.
goinoregon said:
did u look into rotopax? and, what bracket did u use??
Apologies for not responding sooner. I did look into Roto Pax but just couldn’t get around the price point for the equivalent storage amounts. In addition, I just like metal containers for fuel, I’ve had issues with the plastic ones leaking/expanding. As for the shorter 10l/2.5gal Wavians, they go on the roof rack. Yes, I know, not optimal placement. But I don’t want them in the enclosed bed or on the back of the truck. I’ll use a Super Siphon to replenish the tank.
Nice reviews folks...two questions:

#1 Am I correct that the Das Mule bracket is useless on my Hawk as delivered? Need to manufacturer spacers like Chet did?

#2 I have always been concerned about carrying weight up high, at a corner or at the back of the camper....the total weight with fuel and mounting is significant...Wavian can @ 12lbs, Wavian Bracket @ 9.5lbs, Das Mule plate ? but stainless steel so heavy and 5 gallons fuel @ 35 lbs.....pushing 70+ lbs. So is this level of weight on the corner bracket going to be a concern when bouncing down dirt roads for miles? Not to mention 285+ $.

I will pop for the cost but do not want to either negatively affect the handling or structural integrity off road,,,what does the collective wisdom say?



AT Overland seems an option?

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