36 replies to this topic

[RC Pilot Jim]

The 100 watt portable too small.
I PM'd him to get more details. He is running the 110 liter Dometic which draws at least 5 amps (65L draws 5 amps so it must be more).
He needs 5 amp just to run the fridge and few more amps to recharge the battery.

My 2 cents
Install a 150 watt on the roof . and buy the portable for winter/shade camping

[Durango1]

The 100 watt portable too small.
I PM'd him to get more details. He is running the 110 liter Dometic which draws at least 5 amps (65L draws 5 amps so it must be more).
He needs 5 amp just to run the fridge and few more amps to recharge the battery.

My 2 cents
Install a 150 watt on the roof . and buy the portable for winter/shade camping

I really appreciated Jim's personal interest in helping an electrically clueless individual. Unless you are driving each and every day to let the engine alternator "help out" I believe he is correct on the need for roof solar. I love the convenience and reliability of the 110 liter Dometic. But you pay a price with the electric usage!

 

Steve

[rotti]

The 100 watt portable too small.

I have just the 100 watt portable and it keeps my batteries charged in my Hawk with the 110 Dometic without any issues. I have gone seven days in hunting camp not starting the truck plus some furnace and lighting use. I did re-aim the panel several times per day and the temps were cool.

[longhorn1]

Have 100W Zamp on the roof, 2 AGM batteries, 80L Dometic compressor fridge, and run a CPAP Machine at night and haven't had any issues in 3 years. We have a 80W Zamp portable which we seldom use. No issues even with continuous days of rain

Sent from my SM-G900V using Wander The West mobile app

Edited by longhorn1, 01 July 2016 - 11:00 PM.

[Chadx]

Seems to me that with solar, you want the controller as close to the battery as possible. Not sure how much juice you give up by having the controller on the panel using the typical length and gauge supplied with the kits, but seems like the best route, especially since fwc has already run the wiring, is to put your controller in the battery compartment, hook the factory installed wires into your controller, run wire of the proper gauge and fused, from controller to the battery. Then, whether you add only a portable, only a roofmounted, or one of each, you don't need a panel mounted controller. You simply plug in one or the other or both to the fwc sae plugs and you are good to go. Just ensure your controller is sized to handle your total max potential panel amps and you are good to go.

[RC Pilot Jim]

Without a Trimetric or a Zamp or? he will never know for sure. He will always be guessing.
We readers don't have the total picture of what each of us are running.

Dr J in his piece "measured FWC power use", lists the amp draw of the various devices he uses. Quite a list when you add everything up.

Edited by RC Pilot Jim, 02 July 2016 - 01:47 PM.

[Durango1]

He will always be guessing.

Yep, Jim, that pretty much sums up my LIFE!