99 replies to this topic

[DrJ]

Charlie,
Ron is correct that you do not need the switch to run the system. You could manually switch or override the system on the ACR directly. You could also probably figure out when it's on or off based on your trimetric.

The switch just makes all of this simpler. You know if the system is one or off at all times and can change the connection fairly easy.

Here's an example of how I use mine. When I'm driving, I make sure that it's engaged so that I am getting charging for sure if my batteries are really low.
I often disengage it when I'm camping if I'm having a challenge charging just the camper batteries - it's overcast, etc...

I would say most people would be fairly happy with it just in automatic mode and occasionally overriding the system manually.

That's just not me....fiddling with the solar, battery system is part of my experience and fun.

[Stalking Light]

Charlie, I have the 7622 and did not install the switch, odds are you'll never need it. And yes you can just cap off the switch wires.  Ron

 

Thanks Ron.

 

DrJ - I will probably end up installing the switch but that will be a future project, for now I just want to see if I get better charging from the truck.

[395traveler]

 I have an update on my blue sea isolator installed in a 2015 hawk, side dinette, solar panel and  3 way refrigerator. The install went great, I didn't have to alter any wires and put the isolator in the same place as the old one. I couldn't use my refer on DC before with out running the batteries down very fast. Now when I have it on DC during the day while traveling the DC works without running down the batteries. I leave the isolator on automatic and it works perfectly, no extra power loss from heat. At night with out the help of the solar panel I have to manually set the isolator to keep it charging the batteries and the isolator will disengage as soon as you turn the motor off. I haven't tested this on a long trip yet but so far a huge improvement. It is also so nice just to be able to see what the isolator is doing all the time and not have to wonder.

  Peter K.

[DrJ]

PeterK,
Great report!
Glad that has worked out well for you.
I've noticed many of the same improvements as you since my install as well.

[DrJ]

I did hear back today from a FWC dealer that the Blue Sea ACR is now being used on all new campers in place of the prior battery isolator/separator.
Great work FWC!

Maybe someone is reading our posts!

[97grandby]

But are they using the selector switch as well?


1990 Ford F-250
1997 fwc grandby

[Stalking Light]

I did hear back today from a FWC dealer that the Blue Sea ACR is now being used on all new campers in place of the prior battery isolator/separator.
Great work FWC!

Maybe someone is reading our posts!

 

They changed out the thermostat as well to one that was recommended here, so I think the answer is yes.

[tree]

very useful write up, I also added the basspro power panel with A and B battery status meter

[lonepinetech]

There have been several topics and frustrations about charging our camper batteries from the truck.

I researched a few different options and came up with this mod which I thought might be helpful to share.

A special thanks to Ntsqd - his several great posts gave me the idea.

 

My FWC had been ordered with a compressor fridge that uses a fair amount of power. One of the sources to replenish the camper's batteries is charging directly from the truck's alternator. The stock system for this by FWC does provide some charging ability but has a few drawbacks. The stock system charges through a sure power 1314a battery isolator. This provides power to the camper but as a battery isolator has three main drawbacks:

1- loss of voltage to heat through the isolator

2- the isolator will not turn on if your voltage in the camper is too low (like 12.5 volts or lower). So when you need the power the very most from your truck you cannot get it.

3- No power could ever been transferred from the camper to the truck batteries in an emergency.

 

 

The 1314a does not sense the house side when the relay is opened so it will always attempt to charge the house battery if the starter battery and alternator are putting out full voltage. What happens if the house battery is very low the combined voltage of the two batteries and the alternator drops below 12.5v even though the alternator is putting out close to 14v! That is a really dead house battery!... the relay opens. I have not experienced this with my 1314a but I do have a 100 watt panel so my house batteries and i keep an eye on the battery meter and start the engine before they get  that low.

 

 

Yes the 1314a does generate/waste heat by design but has not been noticeable at all. The Blue Sea probably is more efficient than the 1314a, but for most this is not noticeable

 

As far as engine cranking assist.....since FWC wires the banks together with 10 gauge wire it is not safe to use this circuit for engine starting. You must connect the two battery banks with #4 or #2 welding cable when using the engine assist feature of either the Blue Sea relay or the 1314a. I suppose the Blue sea unit could trickle charge the main battery but things start getting complicated with switches and things to remember.

Edited by lonepinetech, 08 December 2016 - 07:57 PM.

[tree]

I was tempted to disconnect the acr that came in my 2016 hawk. since I use a noco onboard charger and solar. im camping for a week in feb. but since the acr turns off when truck is not in use that my batteries will never suck off the truck battery. (hence "separator") correct? like a giant diode