55 replies to this topic

[buckland]

Just road cross country the up to AK. Two weeks on the road (we've had the panel on and running for 9 months at least) all is working without a hitch.... I think a great deal. 

[Squatch]

I've been very pleased with mine so far. It's been in service since last August.

Edited by Squatch, 01 July 2017 - 11:33 AM.

[Chadx]

Thanks all!

Solar Blvd is out of the 160watt but had the 180watt on sale. Same size as the 160watt (58" wide so spans the factory roof tracks). Amps are slightly more as are the volts (19v). I contacted Bogart and they confirmed that, though the the sc-2030 controller recommends 17v-18v, the 19v will be totally fine.

My take on it is the higher voyage of the 180w over the 160w really won't gain me since a PWM controller just drops the volts down without raising the amps, but the higher volts will compensate for any voltage drop on the way to the controller and be handy in the winter time when the temp probe will boost voltage to the batteries.

My 180watt is inbound from solar Blvd and sc-2030, temp probe, etc. from Northern Arizona wind and sun (Same place I got my trimetric 2030). I've run my trimetric for a few trips to determine what watt panel I would need. 100watt probably would be fine, but the 160w I liked to give me more juice in early spring and late fall...plus I like the 58" span. So with the same span, I ordered the 180w.

[Squatch]

I also have 2 of their 60 watt poly panels combined as a suitcase. I like them as well. Yesterday it was supposed to rain so I added the portable to the roof panel. It's a simple plug in. I instantly saw 14 amps in with the fridge running. My battery was a little low. it charged quickly.

[Chadx]

180 watt panel came and it's a beauty! I have a 2030 controller, temp sensor and wiring ready to wire up to my existing, and previously installed, trimetric 2030 monitor, but neglected to order "MC4 to SAE" adapter so that is inbound now. I had planned to cut off the panel's MC4 plugs and solder in the provided FWC pigtail, but had a change of heart and will use an adapter...even though it will mean more unneeded length/coils of wire to secure.

Would be cleaner, in my opinion, to cut and solder since the panel will lay right overtop the rv rooftop plug and it would mean I could leave only only about a foot of cable rather than factory 2 feet on panel plus 1 foot adapter.

...drat, and with that I just realized the inbound adapter that I ordered has an SAE end that is not a right angle one like the FWC pigtail. So I'll still have to cut and solder, but at least that will be an adapter I'm hacking rather than panel wiring.

I need the 90 degree angle to allow me to mount the panel low enough since the huge panel will span over the top of the rooftop rv plug. I need the overall panel height to be no more than an inch or so above the roof vents as my parking garage at work has limited clearance (I've plenty of clearance at home). A straight, non 90 degree sae plug will stick straight up and not allow the panel to sit down low enough. Ah well, I can solder the pigtail and adapter together or cut mc4 off the panel and solder to that as originally planned.

[Happyjax]

Looking forward to pics of your install!

[Vic Harder]

180 watt panel came and it's a beauty! I have a 2030 controller, temp sensor and wiring ready to wire up to my existing, and previously installed, trimetric 2030 monitor, but neglected to order "MC4 to SAE" adapter so that is inbound now. I had planned to cut off the panel's MC4 plugs and solder in the provided FWC pigtail, but had a change of heart and will use an adapter...even though it will mean more unneeded length/coils of wire to secure.

Would be cleaner, in my opinion, to cut and solder since the panel will lay right overtop the rv rooftop plug and it would mean I could leave only only about a foot of cable rather than factory 2 feet on panel plus 1 foot adapter.

...drat, and with that I just realized the inbound adapter that I ordered has an SAE end that is not a right angle one like the FWC pigtail. So I'll still have to cut and solder, but at least that will be an adapter I'm hacking rather than panel wiring.

I need the 90 degree angle to allow me to mount the panel low enough since the huge panel will span over the top of the rooftop rv plug. I need the overall panel height to be no more than an inch or so above the roof vents as my parking garage at work has limited clearance (I've plenty of clearance at home). A straight, non 90 degree sae plug will stick straight up and not allow the panel to sit down low enough. Ah well, I can solder the pigtail and adapter together or cut mc4 off the panel and solder to that as originally planned.

Awesome idea to have it under the panel.  Really limits the water exposure.  At least, that's my theory and has worked for me with my 265W panel on the roof.

[Chadx]

Vic, I think I recall reading your solar thread in the past, but I can't seem to locate it. I was going to go back and re-read primarily to see what roof plug/adapters you used. Did you use the 90 degree SAE pigtail supplied by FWC under your panel? If so, how little lift could you get away with? I know that panels like more air space underneath for cooling purposes, but as I mentioned, I have very limited space to work with if I still want to be able to park in the underground garage at work so I'm spacing the panel only as high as needed to clear the SAE roof plug.

 

As a side note, I have an email out to SolarBlvd, who I believe owns, or is owned by, Solar Cynergy panel maker, so I'm asking if there are any warranty consideration before cutting the MC4 plugs off the panel and soldering on the FWC supplied SAE pigtail.  Awaiting their reply. 

[Vic Harder]

Vic, I think I recall reading your solar thread in the past, but I can't seem to locate it. I was going to go back and re-read primarily to see what roof plug/adapters you used. Did you use the 90 degree SAE pigtail supplied by FWC under your panel? If so, how little lift could you get away with? I know that panels like more air space underneath for cooling purposes, but as I mentioned, I have very limited space to work with if I still want to be able to park in the underground garage at work so I'm spacing the panel only as high as needed to clear the SAE roof plug.

 

As a side note, I have an email out to SolarBlvd, who I believe owns, or is owned by, Solar Cynergy panel maker, so I'm asking if there are any warranty consideration before cutting the MC4 plugs off the panel and soldering on the FWC supplied SAE pigtail.  Awaiting their reply. 

 

http://www.wanderthe... +power +scotty

 

I used a small electronics project box, drilled two holes for some MC4 glands, but the connectors off the PV panel and used wire nuts to connect to the camper wiring.  Glued/sealed the whole mess with 3m 4200.  

 

Hmmm, I will have to take some pics of this so I can post them.

[Chadx]

I owe everyone an updated. I don't have any pics yet and I'll give a better description soon, but I've been running my 180 watt panel for a few weeks now and it just cranks out the juice! We typically would use 15 - 25 amps in a 24 hour period.  I can be at 96% SOC (according to the trimetric when I back out of the shop to load up. I don't pre-chill the Engel 45qt fridge and crank it on and the fantastic fan on low and the panel is still making around 2 amps positive.  I currently have completely disconnected the camper from the truck so no alternator charging. By the time we drive an hour or two to our destination, the batteries are at 100%. We stay at 100% until the sun goes down (running the Engel, fantastic fan, and lights).  Overniight, we might get down to 94% SOC including running the furnace for 10 minutes (even in record breaking 95+ degree heat here in MT, the mountains can get down to 40 degrees in the morning).  By 10 or 11 am, we are back up to 100% SOC.  

 

If anyone is interested, I did work up the correct Trimeteric 2030/Solar controller (SC2030) parameters from a chart on the Exide website. Note, these only apply if you are running the FWC factory Flat Plate AGM Exide batteries. If you run other batteries, that manufacturer should be consulted with to get the correct parameters for that specific battery set.  I also exchanged emails with a helpful Senior Engineer at Exide confirming all parameters. I'll post them up in the next few days.  

 

Will have some photos of the mount as well. It was simple using the factory roof tracks and a few pieces of 1/4" aluminum bar. 

Edited by Chadx, 08 August 2017 - 03:05 AM.