31 replies to this topic

[JaSAn]

I am at the point where the lift panels on my '77 Grandby desperately need replacement.  I have found 3 excellent tutorials:

 

Rich:  http://www.wanderthe...nd-replacement/

Being: http://www.wanderthe...-support/page-2

wvtradbow:  http://www.wanderthe...by-build/page-3

 

I think I remember others (including one that described how to replace the bungie tape to the soft side), but the computer I probably bookmarked them in is dead and either my skill in searching (probable) or the search engine sucks.

 

If anyone knows of others, I would appreciate the links.

 

Thanks,

jim

[Old Crow]

SLO_F-250 has some interesting stuff on installing a new lifting panel starting around post 31 in this thread (post 42 addresses elastics)

 

hpcbmw has an unconventional take on the subject  in this thread

Edited by Old Crow, 02 February 2017 - 11:32 PM.

[Old Crow]

More.... 

 

scheefdog's 87 Fleet refurb -- see posts 23 (new liner) and 34 (new lift panels).

 

Barko1's  lift panel replacement on a Grandby

 

PokyBro's 81 Grandby-to-Hawk project-- see posts 53, 58+   ---- he also fiberglassed the panels

 

Living the Dream's 84 Fleet project -- see post 12.  Conduit.

 

riz's Cheap Easy Fix thread.  Another unconventional fix, this one rotating PVC pipe.

 

Southern Gent's 96 Grandby front-panel replacement thread  - in an hour (!)

 

Dusty Roads-- no-lift-panels-needed post in this thread (post 8)

[JaSAn]

Thanks Old Crow!!!  Your search skills must be much better than mine.

 

jim

[Old Crow]

You're welcome!

 

I've seen lift panels called by many different names so tried variations I could think of (like 'roof panel' or 'front panel' etc.) Then I tried to think of some term related to lift panels and did searches with words like 'folding',  'hinge*', 'delaminated', 'rivets'. etc., and scrolled down through the resulting thread titles looking for candidates.

 

That sounds boring but the interesting reads in the results kept me going and gave me ideas for other search terms to try.

 

I had my laptop in front of me while supposedly watching TV last night and found Wander the West much more interesting.

[ski3pin]

<snip>

I had my laptop in front of me while supposedly watching TV last night and found Wander the West much more interesting.

 

[JaSAn]

 

I had my laptop in front of me while supposedly watching TV last night and found Wander the West much more interesting.

 

I delivered my tv and conversion box to the recyclers a year and a half ago.  Haven't missed it.  I spend way too much time on the internet (but at least I am learning something).

 

jim

[JaSAn]

OK.  I've read through the seven identified lift panel replacement threads (thanks again Old Crow!) and have started my own. 

 

My Grandby was built in 1977 and it does not have any springs in the hinges.  I've gotten along fine with helper shock thingies and speaker lift.  In one of the threads the cost was stated at $40 (each? pair? three?).

 

My question is:  does the spring loaded hinges add enough value to spend money on them?  

 

[PokyBro]

JaSAn,

Just wanted to follow up on Old Crows reference to the lift panels I built. He pointed out the first set I did, including fiberglassing, which didn't work out, the wood was too thick at 1/4". As close to 1/8", or only slightly more (3/16") in thickness is all you can work with. The second set of panels worked out pretty well. Getting the middle hinge placed right is critical for the roof to lay down properly, once assembled. If you can use old panels and get the precise measurements, and hinge placement, you'd do yourself a huge favor. I didn't do that when I had the chance with my crumbling panels, what little was left of them. I thought I had it all figured out, and attempted to make them taller. They're also very difficult to measure when installed in a camper, like if you tried to measure someone else's camper lift panels, because the liner is in the way. In the end, they were the same height as the originals, at about 24 inches. Anyhow, here's where I'd point you to on my thread for how I assembled my panels. Good luck, and feel free to PM me if you want more detailed info.

Poky

http://www.wanderthe...-a-hawk/page-11

Start with about post #102.

I just read your last post. The hinges are about $40 each if ordered from Marty of Jeff at ATC, plus a little for shipping. I purchased three new, and cleaned up and re-used three old. The springs have very little to do with lifting the the roof, I believe their main purpose is to cause pressure so when the panels are extended, they snap into the locked, load-bearing position, and help to keep them locked in that position, with the cloth snap on the back panel, and the push board or aluminum triangle wire on ones such as yours in the front, for secondary security to keep the roof in the upright position.

The main reason I replaced those three hinges were because of rusted broken springs, and aluminum deterioration from long term water exposure from soaked wood panels. I sprayed my old ones with WD-40, got them freed up and folding properly again, and then lubricated them with silicone, before installing.


Sent from my iPad using Wander The West

Edited by PokyBro, 13 February 2017 - 06:15 AM.

[JaSAn]

JaSAn,

Just wanted to follow up on Old Crows reference to the lift panels I built. He pointed out the first set I did, including fiberglassing, which didn't work out, the wood was too thick at 1/4". As close to 1/8", or only slightly more (3/16") in thickness is all you can work with  . . .

 . . . The springs have very little to do with lifting the the roof, I believe their main purpose is to cause pressure so when the panels are extended, they snap into the locked, load-bearing position, and help to keep them locked in that position, with the cloth snap on the back panel, and the push board or aluminum triangle wire on ones such as yours in the front, for secondary security to keep the roof in the upright position.

 

PokyBro,

 

Thanks for taking the time to respond.  It is much appreciated.

 

My rear panels are original and in good enough shape to use as a pattern.  The front panels were replaced by a previous owner (using melamine !) and can also be used as a pattern.

 

My panels (by design, I think) go slightly over center when in the up position (the roof has to go up a little bit when the panels first start to fold).  This has worked well for 39+ years, so I am going to forgo the added complication of dealing with the tensioned hinges during assembly. 

 

I must have read your explanation three times before it sunk into my thick skull that the problem is the center hinge.  If I mount the panels behind the top and bottom hinge, the center hinge determines how thick a panel can be used.  The original hinges have only .170 inches separating them when closed.  After a discouraging afternoon spent at Menards, Home Depot, and Lowes, looking at their supply of thin plywood (all of it paneling: crappy plywood with a pretty veneer), it finally dawned on me that maybe I should replace the hinge (Duh!).  McMaster-Carr has a 6 foot long 'Extra-Clearance Offset Piano Hinge without Holes' that gives me a whopping .375 inches separation when closed.  $17.64 for unfinished steel or $37.07 for 304 Stainless.  The extra .2 inches shouldn't hurt (and possibly help by driving the panels a little more over center when open).  Going to ruminate about this overnight.

 

I'm going to fire up my build thread again 'cuz I am doing a number of things differently.  Or to paraphrase Dilbert: "If it works keep improving it until it doesn't work any more".  It's a compulsion engineers have.

 

jim