95 replies to this topic

[kmcintyre]

It'd be really cool if you could find a valve like those that had freeze protection on them.  I've had my pipe freeze just a few times but it'd be nice not to have to worry about it.  My older Eagle has the pipe that is mounted under the rail along the side so it's exposed.  Yes, I could put some pipe insulation on it too :-)

[Icansmelldiesel]

Were you able to find a backing plate for this one on Amazon?

Nope. Metal Flange only available on eBay: http://m.ebay.com/itm/181845510888

[gaylon]

XJINTX - that valve has 1/4" npt threads. The eBay sourced flange I am using has a 1/8" npt female opening. You would need a fitting to adapt the two.

[Icansmelldiesel]

Ok, I'm confusing myself. Are these parts compatible?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/181845510888
https://www.amazon.c...BxtL&ref=plSrch

Edited by Icansmelldiesel, 18 May 2017 - 04:16 PM.

[gaylon]

Not without a male 1/8" NPT to female 1/4" NPT adaptor fitting.  The flange has a 1/8" NPT female opening and the valve you list has a 1/4" male fitting.

[BobM]

I just went to an auto parts store and bought a radiator petcock to fit into the flange.  Been going great since I bought it 3 1/2 years ago.  The only down side is it takes a very long time to drain.  The pro to that is if some Ahole decides to open your drain valve it won't do much damage unless you're away for many hours.  

[dakozicki]

I installed mine just as the original post showed.  My only comment would be that I wish the threads on the valve were reversed so that the lever would sit on top instead of facing out.  My worry is that something will bang that blue plastic lever more easily as it is currently configured.  I did check and saw that the rubber door stop does keep the door from slamming into it. Other than that, it works fine and was fairly easy to install and is definitely more sturdy than the old plastic one that went into my spare parts bin.  Just make sure you use something to gently pull the flexible water supply tubing out (vice grips) and set the screw tight metal band far enough back on the barbed flange to allow it to clear the camper siding when you push it back in.

[PJorgen]

Just finished the install of mine.  For the TL;DR crowd - it was pretty straightforward and it's a beautiful bit of kit.

 

Overall very happy with it.  The quality of the two parts is extremely good, but with shipping the cost is close to $50 for both.  I also bought black anodized screws for the total black-out effect.

 

As mentioned, it's a bit tricky getting enough of the hose pulled out to seat the barb of the flange.  I used a long needle-nosed pliers and gently worked it out.  Was surprised to find a screw-type hose clamp on the hose as there is very little pressure.  I reinstalled the hose clamp, figured better safe than sorry. It looked like FWC  had used plumber's putty as the sealant so that's what I used.

 

The action of the valve is incredibly smooth, I spent a good 10 minutes just turning it on and off.  Good thing the drought is over, I probably wasted 5 gallons of water.

 

When the valve is off, the door clears it easily.  When the valve is on, the door will contact the valve if the door "stay open" latch is not used.  It is possible that if the valve were on and the door was opened violently, it would hit and possibly damage the valve.  I think this is low risk as the valve is off most of the time.

 

Some pics:

 

[craig333]

Nice touch with the black screws

[Sourdough Jack]

The plastic spigot looks like a cheap after thought on an otherwise top notch camper. The handle snapped off when I tried to close on in 30 degree weather and another spigot leaked. After I replaced it and did a biopsy, the plastic had been scored by sand or something. Imagine, a FWC being used where there is dust and sand! BITE THE BULLET FWC and pony up for a spigot to match the quality of your camper. Bury the five extra dollars in my $27,000.00 price tag.

Edited by Sourdough Jack, 01 May 2018 - 10:49 PM.