110 replies to this topic

[patrickkidd]

Have any of you found a way to protect your fridge backside from the elements? Maybe just a barrier between it and the vents? I have a dometic 2193 absorption. The flame goes out with even the slightest gust of wind or driving just a little ways. It also seems like the hardware is not built for below freezing temps.

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

The Dometic 3-way in our RV had a recall to add a light gauge sheet metal barrier that does exactly what you’re talking about. Might be worth reaching out to them or one of their dealers.

[craig333]

Have you considered a relighter?  https://www.amazon.c...e/dp/B00P977QSI

 

http://www.wanderthe...-refrigerators/

[patrickkidd]

The Dometic 3-way in our RV had a recall to add a light gauge sheet metal barrier that does exactly what you’re talking about. Might be worth reaching out to them or one of their dealers.

 

Thanks for the tip. I just spoke to Dometic support (very helpful and personable support, FWIW). They said there was no recall for my unit, they don't recommend using it un temperatures below "20-30F", and recommend running it on 12VDC while driving. 

 

Have you considered a relighter?  https://www.amazon.c...e/dp/B00P977QSI

 

http://www.wanderthe...-refrigerators/

 

A relighted sounds like a great idea no matter the case. Any idea where to find one for this Dometic unit? The backside of the unit in your photos looks the same as my 2193RB.

[patrickkidd]

Looks like obtaining relighters is no easy, or cheap task. Seems no one is making them anymore? Or maybe just for this model?

[craig333]

Certainly seems to be a common problem.

http://www.fiberglas...idge-80275.html

 

Unfortunately I don't have a propane fridge but it looks like in the original relighter post they were using a somewhat universal relighter that was modified depending on your fridges configuration. Depends on your handyman skills. 

 

Someone on Expo found a source but the site is down at the moment. I'll keep looking.

 

Ah, here it is. https://www.amazon.c...t/dp/B00CD6PRIY

[jimjxsn]

I did the reliter mod on my old FWC Ranger, this looks like the one I used https://www.rveparts...hter-kit-93212/

[patrickkidd]

Wow that’s expensive! How well did it work? Were you able to lessen the original problem at all by protecting the flame with playing etc?

[jimjxsn]

Wow that’s expensive! How well did it work? Were you able to lessen the original problem at all by protecting the flame with playing etc?

 

I think it was about $50 back then...

 

It worked great.  But I didn't usually drive with the fridge on propane.

 

This one on ebay looks the same.  As I recall it was actually for a water heater. 

 

https://www.ebay.com...00495894&chn=ps

 

It took a 9 volt battery...

Edited by jimjxsn, 02 March 2019 - 01:11 AM.

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

The RV fridge we use in the Class A is most probably larger than yours...good sized separate freezer compartment with a fridge section that is about 40” tall. Typical RV unit. We now run the fridge on propane only, regardless of whether there is 110v available. And forget about 12v...especially when we boondock, and we mostly camp like that. It’s our experience that electricity does not “boil” the refrigerant sufficiently to keep food properly chilled/frozen. There is a marked difference in performance.

Due to the smaller size of your unit YMMV, but based on our experience with 3-way units I’d keep looking for a solution to your propane issue. Smaller, established RV/trailer shops may be able to help you out. YouTube is my best friend.