110 replies to this topic

[Happyjax]

Yep, if we could just control that breathing problem we would have this issue solved!

[Wallowa]

Happyjax has the right idea in moving the cold surface, where condensation can form from moist air, to the outside of the pop-up wall. Either warm the interior surface enough to keep it above the dew point, or add insulation to the outside, or remove the moist air through ventilation. 

 

I remember a winter spent in 100 mile House BC in a cabin with 2x4 walls insulated with sawdust and covered by wood paneling inside. The nail heads holding the paneling to the 2x4's would get very cold in -40 degrees. Each morning there would be a quarter inch frost ball on each nail head even though the cabin was well heated. Our breath was enough to provide sufficient moisture.

 

Paul

 

Forget all our inane prattle about making a 'silk purse out of a sow's ear' [expecting a FWC to be an igloo] ...

 

But..Paul,  I love and completely agree with your:  "I thought getting old would take longer"!   Outstanding !!

 

Phil

Edited by Wallowa, 15 December 2018 - 08:53 PM.

[klahanie]

  Odd you would mention double pane window....we live in a very dry climate and our double paned windows accumulate ice on the inside on cold nights behind thermal shades...as to what you described, air will still be between the outside vinyl of the camper wall and the outside of the soft wall fabric...hence ice/condensation will form...

 

"ice/condensation on water glass" had been mentioned, "windows" were my continuation. The crux of it rests in a belief that double pane windows are more thermally efficient - that the room side surface in winter will be "warmer" - than a single pane in the same conditions and that this would aid in reduced condensation and heat loss from the structure. My comment on an insulated softwall as a desirable replacement to the current, single layer type involves this same principle, and belief.

 

Similarly for my comment re air circulation, a belief that moving air could reduce condensation build up. I freely admit that when the car windscreen gets fogged up, I'll turn on the defrost fan. And, if I want to clear condensate on a window, in the camper or at home, I'll open the drapes or blinds to promote exposure to air movement.

 

 

we live in a very dry climate

 

Good point. We don't. My area has been wet of late, with a forecast for 2-3" of rain tomorrow, hardly newsworthy here.

 

No doubt long term exposure to copious annual rainfall has influenced my thought process. Likewise, my perspective of camper ownership no doubt formed by my unique travel experiences and observations wandering  an admittedly foreign West.

 

I try to be mindful of all this when posting. But a reminder never hurts.

[DavidGraves]

Way back when.... in the earliest days of motoring ( the sixties ) we were taught to open the little triangular Vent windows to help defrost a windshield....not sure but it seemed to work....with cold air from outside the vehicle.

 

David Graves

[Wallowa]

Way back when.... in the earliest days of motoring ( the sixties ) we were taught to open the little triangular Vent windows to help defrost a windshield....not sure but it seemed to work....with cold air from outside the vehicle.

 

David Graves

 

Ah, the 50s and 60s....you forgot the cowl vent in front of the windshield...push the lever arm under the dash to open...for one I miss wind wings...you could roll down the side windows and not get blasted if the wind wings were open...way back the bottom of the windshield could be tilted out...but alas there were the vacuum windshield wipers...going up hill, forget about it!

 

Some, not all, of the "good old days" were indeed good!

[cjudson]

The water tank drain that runs somewhere under the camper (2011 Hawk) to the rear where the valve is...I'd think it would be prone to freezing. I can't think of a way to prevent it from freezing but I've not seen a comment here that it's been a problem for others. Lots of good ideas on protecting the other water lines, like leaving the cabinet door open and keeping the interior temp above freezing, but that drain seems vulnerable and might be hard to access for repair later. Heading for Utah in a few days and will just use bottled water but I've been wondering about that drain line. It would be nice to use the water system if I could be confident that I wouldn't split open a pipe. 

[klahanie]

^ cjudson, can you access the water tank easily and add a simple inline shutoff valve inside the camper ? then for freezing temps, close the inside valve and open the outside drain to clear any water between the valves.

 

There have been a few threads about water winterizing and replacing that drain spigot. Might be some other ideas buried in them that could work for you.

[cjudson]

^ cjudson, can you access the water tank easily and add a simple inline shutoff valve inside the camper ? then for freezing temps, close the inside valve and open the outside drain to clear any water between the valves.

 

There have been a few threads about water winterizing and replacing that drain spigot. Might be some other ideas buried in them that could work for you.

Good idea. It is a bit of a puzzle how to access that end of the tank. Looking down in there beside the tank I did see a nut driver and a pen I'd dropped some time ago and remembered why they are still there...access is really tight!

 

Thanks.

[cjudson]

^ cjudson, can you access the water tank easily and add a simple inline shutoff valve inside the camper ? then for freezing temps, close the inside valve and open the outside drain to clear any water between the valves.

 

There have been a few threads about water winterizing and replacing that drain spigot. Might be some other ideas buried in them that could work for you.

Found it. The tube runs along the left side along the floor under a piece of wood I thought was just trim.  Not sure how to reference the post by Stan that shows it, but search on: "The 20 gallon fresh water tank drain runs along the floor (in most floor plans)".

[klahanie]

^ good find !

 

That'll work beauty. Might even be able to cut and plug the drain line. Then recouple after winter. That way the trim might still fit with out having to hide a bulky valve.

 

Good luck and enjoy your trip.

 

Here's the link btw

http://www.wanderthe...e-3#entry188609

Edited by klahanie, 30 January 2019 - 12:23 AM.