51 replies to this topic

[rando]

Here are the differences:

 

Sure Power 1314A:  Single sensing, closed current 750mA, Cranking Amps 400A, Continuous Amps 100A

http://www.ase-suppl...s/1314-1315.pdf

 

Blue Sea 7611: Dual sensing, closed current ~100mA (measured), Cranking Amps > 210A, Continuous Amps 120A

https://www.bluesea....12V_24V_DC_120A

 

Blue Sea 7622: Dual sensing, closed current 13mA, Cranking Amps 1450A, Continuous Amps 500A

https://www.bluesea....l_-_12V_DC_500A

 

The only difference you will notice is dual sensing vs single sensing.  With either of the Blue Seas models your camper solar will also charge your truck battery.  To me, this is a big plus and worth the upgrade.    However if you have lithium batteries you need to think carefully about this.    

 

The other differences won't provide a noticeable change in performance.  As I mentioned before,  the closed current consumption is not a big deal as the relay is only closed while charging, except possibly with the Sure Power as it seems to consume enough to get hot (neither of the Blue Seas do).   The amp rating doesn't matter either as they are all well above the ratings of the circuit breaker in the wiring.  On price the 7611 and 1314A are about the same price, the 7622 is $100 more. 

[rando]

One other thing, if you are going to splurge for the 7622, you probably want to install the switch, in which case it should be installed under the hood so you can wire the switch to your dash, and size doesn't matter.    For 1314A -> 7611 check the spec sheets, but they are about the same size. 

[Outnabout]

Here are the differences:

Sure Power 1314A: Single sensing, closed current 750mA, Cranking Amps 400A, Continuous Amps 100A
http://www.ase-suppl...s/1314-1315.pdf

Blue Sea 7611: Dual sensing, closed current ~100mA (measured), Cranking Amps > 210A, Continuous Amps 120A
https://www.bluesea....12V_24V_DC_120A

Blue Sea 7622: Dual sensing, closed current 13mA, Cranking Amps 1450A, Continuous Amps 500A
https://www.bluesea....l_-_12V_DC_500A

The only difference you will notice is dual sensing vs single sensing. With either of the Blue Seas models your camper solar will also charge your truck battery. To me, this is a big plus and worth the upgrade. However if you have lithium batteries you need to think carefully about this.

The other differences won't provide a noticeable change in performance. As I mentioned before, the closed current consumption is not a big deal as the relay is only closed while charging, except possibly with the Sure Power as it seems to consume enough to get hot (neither of the Blue Seas do). The amp rating doesn't matter either as they are all well above the ratings of the circuit breaker in the wiring. On price the 7611 and 1314A are about the same price, the 7622 is $100 more.

Thanks for the info. Yes, the Surepower gets hot. I just checked my newly installed 7611 and it is not hot and happily charging my truck batteries.

[Wallowa]

Here are the differences:

 

Sure Power 1314A:  Single sensing, closed current 750mA, Cranking Amps 400A, Continuous Amps 100A

http://www.ase-suppl...s/1314-1315.pdf

 

Blue Sea 7611: Dual sensing, closed current ~100mA (measured), Cranking Amps > 210A, Continuous Amps 120A

https://www.bluesea....12V_24V_DC_120A

 

Blue Sea 7622: Dual sensing, closed current 13mA, Cranking Amps 1450A, Continuous Amps 500A

https://www.bluesea....l_-_12V_DC_500A

 

The only difference you will notice is dual sensing vs single sensing.  With either of the Blue Seas models your camper solar will also charge your truck battery.  To me, this is a big plus and worth the upgrade.    However if you have lithium batteries you need to think carefully about this.    

 

The other differences won't provide a noticeable change in performance.  As I mentioned before,  the closed current consumption is not a big deal as the relay is only closed while charging, except possibly with the Sure Power as it seems to consume enough to get hot (neither of the Blue Seas do).   The amp rating doesn't matter either as they are all well above the ratings of the circuit breaker in the wiring.  On price the 7611 and 1314A are about the same price, the 7622 is $100 more. 

 

 

Great synopsis and appreciated...of course I have another question  ...what is/are the practical difference [s] between the 7611 and 7622 based on the amperage differences?  Why pick one over the other based on the specs you listed?

 

Thanks....

 

Phil

Edited by Wallowa, 25 October 2020 - 10:47 PM.

[Vic Harder]

7611 has no remote switch option, the 7622 does.  7622 can carry way more current, if that matters to you and you are using heavy enough cables.

[rando]

 

 

Great synopsis and appreciated...of course I have another question  ...what is/are the practical difference [s] between the 7611 and 7622 based on the amperage differences?  Why pick one over the other based on the specs you listed?

 

Thanks....

 

Phil

 

The 7622 can carry more current, but that is a moot point unless your wiring is fused to carry the current.  The stock wiring from FWC has a 30A circuit breaker, so there is no advantage to the 7622 in this case as the breaker is the weak link.  I seriously doubt anyone has their system fused above 250A, so the extra current carrying ability of the 7622 really provides no benefit.    

 

The only actual benefit of the 7622 is the lower power consumption when the relay is on - I did not feel it was worth the extra $100 get an extra 0.1A of charge current.   But that is your call. 

 

Edit to add: the 7611 also has the capability to add a switch, I have this installed on mine, but rarely us it.   It is not included with the ACR.

[pvstoy]

At the time of rewire I bought the 7622 as it came with the needed remote switch.  With 80 AMP breakers on either end the higher current was not needed. If I did my research at the time and realized that I could have wired in a remote switch on the 7611 I would have gone that route.

 

Since the installation I have not allowed the alternator to charge the camper batteries as of yet.  Solar is working fine. I do move the rocker to both when the house current is charging through the IOTA to bring up the truck battery while in the garage.

[rando]

 

 

Great synopsis and appreciated...of course I have another question  ...what is/are the practical difference [s] between the 7611 and 7622 based on the amperage differences?  Why pick one over the other based on the specs you listed?

 

Thanks....

 

Phil

 

One other point to add from another thread:   If you do think a lithium house battery could be in your future, you may want to look into the Cyrix Li, as it will work with lithium.

[Wallowa]

Again...where, under what circumstances  would a 7622 work but the 7611 would not?

[pvstoy]

Again...where, under what circumstances  would a 7622 work but the 7611 would not?

Using the remote switch and locking truck and camper batteries together to have high Amp current to run a winch at full load. Of course you need the wiring sized to allow the amps. Just a example.