25 replies to this topic

[buckland]

Just half hour ago I bought these     White Knight Wheel Nut 11709D4

for the Colorado. I swear I could not find out if the nuts were solid or jacketed like the OEM. I prefer solid and we will see on Monday.

Thanks for the suggestion though because if I don't like these I'll be sending them back! 

[Dirt Rider]

Dodge/Ram uses those swell up lug nuts also, switched them out to normal ASAP as I could not get any size socket on. I always carry a breaker bar and socket with extension but am tempted to start carrying an electric impact.

[ntsqd]

In the trade they're called "Bulge Nuts".

Some have a SS cover on them and when that cover is removed or lost the remaining hex is not a common size. Ran into this with a DD.

I carry a Milwaukee M18 1/2" impact when we go really remote because there is no way my wife could get the lug nuts loose if I am incapacitated.

Edited by ntsqd, 14 July 2022 - 06:42 PM.

[buckland]

I believe I may have screwed the pooch as I ended up getting g bulge when I really did not want them. The OEM on my truck are 6 years old and I am changing them all out as there are many that are 'loose' . If I swap them out every 4 years at $55 for all. It is still cheaper than the solids which I could not find for under $6 a lug nut (I need 24).  It does amaze me how complicated buying a lug nut has become. Frankly it's nuts!

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

I remember running into the problem with the "cover" coming off on a Jeep I had.

But I was able to use a metric size socket to remove them.

That was many years ago so I think my memory it correct.

 

All I need to know is that my Tundra and Highlander both have solid lugs.

 

Ouch $6 each that's a lot.

 

Frank

[ntsqd]

I prefer the bulge nuts because it means that I can use a socket with a smaller OD. Which is less likely to make contact with the wheel and scar it.

 

In one vehicle's case it also means that the Snap-On deep impact socket that I bought for it's original 1/2-20 wheel studs will fit the lug nuts for it's soon to be 9/16-18 wheel studs. To get bigger OEM brakes I'm moving from 5 on 5.5" to 8 on 6.5" which uses the 9/16 studs and it wasn't possible to stay with the 1/2" wheel studs..

[buckland]

Okay ...I hate learning the hard way but it seems i'm on a oneway street. The White Knights listed above came and are also wrong despite what the website said. Just as well as I can send them back for full amount. I tried a few local places and all (I'm learning the lingo) were acorn bulge lug nuts.... It's 'capped' I discovered was the word for what I did not want (the ones with that thin chrome jacket that swells up with rust) . I found a guy at CarID that knew his stuff and hated lug nut customers because all his info is so hard to sift through... He came through for me. Solid metal, (not capped) bulge cone acorn lugs in a set of 24 (most sets are 20???? and list my truck as 'fits') They were also cheaper than the capped! So though it is a pain to have to drive to UPS to return the other ones at least I found what I wanted. If you need lug nuts call CarID ask for Frank in the Wheel dept. He is dedicated.

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Glad you found the right ones.

I was going to suggest an auto store like O'Rileys.

 

Thanks for the right terminology.

Frank 

( no relation to your Frank the "nut" guy)

[buckland]

I switched out the lug nuts and boy am I glad I did. I'd say of the 24, 10 were split. One was so bad I couldn't get the 22mm socket on it and of course I had a 24 but not a 23. I used a larger tire iron and it then just spun on the interior nut. I cut the end of the jacket off and was able to split the jacket and remove it. The actual steel nut is a 21mm which I had. I now have both the 22mm and 21mm in the camper tool box as well as the long handled torque wrench (set to 140 ft lbs). I carry a cross style lug wrench (4 sizes) as well. Much easier to deal with that at home then on a dusty hot roadside. 

Attached Thumbnails

• 

Edited by buckland, 02 August 2022 - 06:40 PM.

[ntsqd]

A  note of concern that may be misplaced, but if your torque wrench is a "clicker" type and it has been left at some setting other than zero it probably isn't accurate any more. Clickers are notorious for going out of calibration if left on anything other than zero, and sometimes even then.