How to access driver-side front elevator bolt
#11
Posted 29 October 2023 - 04:55 PM
I have a 2001 Eagle and I replaced 3 of the 4 elevator bolts (actually they are eye-bolts) with the newer FWC system that I bought directly from them...alum plate on top and strong, elongated L-bracket with hole on underside. I seem to remember that it requires drilling two holes instead of the single hole used for the elevator eye-bolt.
Unfortunately my fourth elevator eye-bolt was totally inaccessible as it's under all the cabinetry for the kitchen galley. I replaced 3 elevator eye-bolts with the FWC upgrade kit as a preventive measure and the one that I couldn't replace is still functional. It's on my list for when I upgrade those cabinets.
The poster correctly evaluated the situation as there's no way to reach his broken eye-bolt unless he removes the cabinets. And he needs space to drill holes and install the new one and/or an aluminum plate. Removing the cabinets is not hard if you are doing a demolition but would require more time if you are trying to remove and replace without damaging some things.
#12
Posted 29 October 2023 - 05:35 PM
Hi everyone. Unfortunately I sheared another elevator bolt... this time the driver-side front bolt of my 2010 Eagle. Anyone have insight as to how to access this for replacement? It's inaccessible right now, under the cabinetry (from front to back, I have a water pump, stove, and sink), next to the 10gal water tank. Wondering if anyone has done this and has any tips to avoid disassembling the entire cabinetry. Thanks for the help.
I think Swope is saying that the hold-down eye-bolt protruding from the underside of his camper has sheared off. It's often referred to as an elevator bolt in old posts. It happens occasionally to some older campers although the most common issue is where the elevator eye pulls through the wood on the camper.
I have a 2001 Eagle and I replaced 3 of the 4 elevator bolts (actually they are eye-bolts) with the newer FWC system that I bought directly from them...alum plate on top and strong, elongated L-bracket with hole on underside. I seem to remember that it requires drilling two holes instead of the single hole used for the elevator eye-bolt.
Unfortunately my fourth elevator eye-bolt was totally inaccessible as it's under all the cabinetry for the kitchen galley. I replaced 3 elevator eye-bolts with the FWC upgrade kit as a preventive measure and the one that I couldn't replace is still functional. It's on my list for when I upgrade those cabinets.
The poster correctly evaluated the situation as there's no way to reach his broken eye-bolt unless he removes the cabinets. And he needs space to drill holes and install the new one and/or an aluminum plate. Removing the cabinets is not hard if you are doing a demolition but would require more time if you are trying to remove and replace without damaging some things.
If the one that sheared is under the cabinet area and you don't want to rip it out to replace.... Might consider going bolt through the floor method. Find four areas that are easy to get to under the truck bed and inside the camper. Need backing plates inside and out to spread the load over a wide surface area so as not to pull through. Grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts. Careful where you drill, a small diameter drill bit will help locate the hole.
Just another option. I have owned three FWC and all of them have been bolted through the floor. I have never used turnbuckles.
Patrick
2015 FWC Hawk Flatbed
#13
Posted 29 October 2023 - 09:08 PM
I think Swope is saying that the hold-down eye-bolt protruding from the underside of his camper has sheared off. It's often referred to as an elevator bolt in old posts. It happens occasionally to some older campers although the most common issue is where the elevator eye pulls through the wood on the camper.
I have a 2001 Eagle and I replaced 3 of the 4 elevator bolts (actually they are eye-bolts) with the newer FWC system that I bought directly from them...alum plate on top and strong, elongated L-bracket with hole on underside. I seem to remember that it requires drilling two holes instead of the single hole used for the elevator eye-bolt.
Unfortunately my fourth elevator eye-bolt was totally inaccessible as it's under all the cabinetry for the kitchen galley. I replaced 3 elevator eye-bolts with the FWC upgrade kit as a preventive measure and the one that I couldn't replace is still functional. It's on my list for when I upgrade those cabinets.
The poster correctly evaluated the situation as there's no way to reach his broken eye-bolt unless he removes the cabinets. And he needs space to drill holes and install the new one and/or an aluminum plate. Removing the cabinets is not hard if you are doing a demolition but would require more time if you are trying to remove and replace without damaging some things.
Thanks for doing some explaining of this "elevator" bolt.
I just looked at the camper end of my Bobcat mounting system.
I do have an elevator bolt also. On the left lower,cabinet area would it be possible to use
an angled head drill to drill new holes and install new eye bolts. Is there enough height
inside the lower cabinet with the slide doors to get a drill in?
This could also be done with the camper off the truck,or put the drill through the turn buckle access holes.
It would mean drilling the new holes not just through the camper wood platform but
also through the finished lower cabinet bottom,since the elevator bolts are installed before the finished cabinets are.
Frank
2002 Tundra AC TRD 4WD Limited 2009 ATC Bobcat loaded http://sharychic.blogspot.com/
#14
Posted 29 October 2023 - 09:59 PM
The bolt on the left front of my Hawk came loose. I was able to use a hole saw and drill hole inside of cabinet on front side of cabinet large enough to get my hand in to tighten the bolt. Not a easy fix for sure, just a real tight area to access.
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: eagle, elevator bolt, eyenut, turnbuckle
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