58 replies to this topic

[Brandon]

Figured I'd start a thread since I have been posting in another one. Picked up this hawk at the Pick n Pull for $200. I've only got a few hours into it so I have a ways to go but currently stripping it down.

Anyway.. The gallery is here: http://www.wanderthe...nkyard-project/

How it looked in the yard


It had a modified front cab. Actually pretty clean but my goal is to lighten it up as much as possible for my Dodge Dakota..


So the first thing was to remove the cap..


Actually by that picture most of the interior had been gutted, including the pop up material which was shot (any suggestions for places in Sacramento to get a replacement?)

The one side of the upper bed was bent down so this is part of the reason for the tear down. It was also pretty waterlogged so removal of the plywood was in order

A beforeish inside picture

The pile of some of what has been removed (much more to come!)


Hard to see but this is the bent side, the oak reinforcement wood is broken and the welds on the frame are broken. Really surprised how little they are welded, you'd think you'd weld it more but I guess that is production for you


The other side as it sits


I don't have much time in yet. Not real sure where this is going but the current plan is to get it down to the aluminum frame. Then I am pretty sure I will weld up a lot of the frame that is just tacked now to make it a bit more rigid since I won't be putting back nearly as much of the inner support structure (weight weenie). I would like to see if I can get a new upper channel (Stan?) to put in since mine is in pretty bad shape. Once I get it down to that point I will build it back up maximizing the space to the contour of my bed. Not sure if I will use plywood for the bottom like what is in there now or not. I'd actually like to build it with no wood but we'll see if I go through with that. Anyway, picked it up just last weekend so this has just begun. I am not known for quick projects but I have built quite a few vehicles, houses, etc. Licensed Civil engineer by trade, fabricator by hobby.

[Tomas Tierra]

Quite an undertaking Brandon (to say the least).. I think the welds are only tacked to allow for flex in the frame..I ripped an old one apart a few years back and was surprised by the welds as well.

If you get it stripped down and decide its to much, the price of recycled alluminum is up

[ski3pin]

Brandon, quite the project! Best of luck on it. Not only did we find the folks at FWC helpful but also the guys at ATC in Sacramento were a great help in our remodel of our Ranger II. And, of course all the great information on this forum! Get it done,,,,,they're a lot more fun out of the garage!

[Argonaut20]

My $.02 worth: Talk to Marty at ATC or Stan at FWC to find out the reason for the welds being tack welds and how much inner support structure is necessary. These folks build these campers and repair them. Guidance at this point in the game may make your job easier in the long run. Many is the time I've wished I'd talked to someone who knew what they were doing before I started a project and learned the hard way what could make the project easier.

[Brandon]

[Ted]

Ditto on all the comments. My understanding is that each joint is only welded on one side to allow for flex in the frame. And do call FWC and ATC for advice. I also second the rocommendation in the other thread for the RV Doctor. He will have used parts of anything you may need.

Really looking forward to following your rebuild. Good luck. Ted

[dbolton]

As a civil engineer, you probably know about pinned vs. fixed structural connections, and how a moment-resisting metal connection can work harden, become brittle, and fail.

Not sure if that was the design intent, but having observed the framing and talked with the guys at ATC, fully welding the connections may not increase their life as much as you may think.

YMMV, Dan

[Brandon]

As a civil engineer, you probably know about pinned vs. fixed structural connections, and how a moment-resisting metal connection can work harden, become brittle, and fail.

Not sure if that was the design intent, but having observed the framing and talked with the guys at ATC, fully welding the connections may not increase their life as much as you may think.

YMMV, Dan

yea.. I don't think that's the case, or else they would all be pinned (bolted) connections. Welding one side of a four sided tube to a flat surface and then applying a force say opposite the welded side in the direction of the weld does not justify a pinned connection - besides, the weld broke not the metal so the weak link is.. the weld. I've been wrong before but my guess is it is a time thing.

So.. is there some sort of registry? I assume that #733 is a build number?

[griz]

Nasty, thats a project. Good luck and have fun. Your a better man than I. Hang on, maybe not better just smarter. One way to stay out of the Mrs. hair................

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

hi brandon.thanks for the e-mail.what is the inside length of the floor? with the extra "storage" area in front,seeing the picture of it on the ranger it looks short.seems like it's going to fir the truck ok now that you removed it.i have seen the frames at FWC &ATC as well as i remember they were welded on two of the four sides,seems only logical that you would weld two opposing sides of the joint.what can i do to help with the rebuild?give a call if you want to do some comparisons.frank


folks this guy can "weld the crack of dawn and silver solder a broken heart".