41 replies to this topic

[HERR42]

buy one of these!

http://riekerinc.com...meter/2056e.htm

then use it to PROVE that you are parked level within specs.

Because if your not sure that you parked correctly the problems might be considered operator error.
sorry.

get the tool, quit guessing.




specs dictate 3 degreee fore and aft and 6 degree side to side....from the fridge point of view.

[chnlisle]

Even though I ran out of propane the tank only took 1 gal when I filled it. Anybody know the capacity on these things?

[EdoHart]

Even though I ran out of propane the tank only took 1 gal when I filled it. Anybody know the capacity on these things?

A lot more than 1 gallon. I haven't run out, but when I've had it filled it has taken more than 3 gallons (at least that's what the attendant has charged me).

Maybe you have a plug in the line before the first gas appliance, or a bad pressure regulator. You might want to use compressed air at the end of the line furthest from the tank and blowing back into the system (with the tank removed) to try to back flush it. However, I don't know if this would cause damage to the pressure regulator. You may need to remove that to prevent damage - hopefully others will know.

If you do remove any of the threadded fittings, don't use plain old white teflon tape to seal them again. Be sure to get some teflon tape specifically for gas fittings.

[DLN]

Just to be on the safe side I always use tape and pipe dope on gas lines. The engineer in me loves redundancy.

[chnlisle]

Well what ever the fuel capacity is the burner won't stay lit. I have no clue how to fgix these things. I assume there's a thermo couple in there that has some sort of critical distance it needs to be but what that is is a mystery to me. Help!

[Sportsman Matt]

I recently ran into a similar situation with my Norcold 2 way, wouldn't get cold enough on propane, but on 110 it would freeze everything when set to the middle temperature position. I called Norcold and one question that came up was the clearance on the sides and top of the fridge in the compartment it was in.

Seems the manufacturer (KZ-RV Inc) neglected to insulate the compartment, or fill in the 4" gaps around the box. So when on electric, the heating element was inside the insulated chimney and worked fine, when switched to gas, the burner which is below the chimney, generated so much heat that the cooling unit inside couldn't keep up, and worse as the unit called for more cooling, the burner would put out more heat, defeating the cooling of the system.

So this weekend I'm pulling the fridge, insulating and closing off the 4" wide gaps around the fridge, and should see a huge improvement in performance.

Also there is a bulb in the back on the fins, usually with a metal clip. if the fridge is n't getting cold enough, you can move it up to trick it into getting colder, and down if it's getting too cold. Move it only about 1mm at a time, more than that can create more headaches as it will swing the temperature too far in either direction.

[chnlisle]

I would try that if I could keep the F#ckn' thing lit.

[EdoHart]

Well what ever the fuel capacity is the burner won't stay lit. I have no clue how to fgix these things. I assume there's a thermo couple in there that has some sort of critical distance it needs to be but what that is is a mystery to me. Help!

I hope I don't sound condescending. I really am trying to help. And, I know that you know how to light your own refrigerator.

Let us backup and start with some simple troubleshooting.

1) What brand and model of 3 way refrigerator do you have?
2) Do you know the routing of the gas line to all of your gas appliances? Specifically, is there another appliance, like a stove or water heater, that is plumbed into the system between the gas tank and the 3 way? Or is there another appliance that is plumbed into the system past the 3-way?
2a) If there is another gas appliance before your 3-way, does it get sufficient gas flow such that it operates correctly?
2b) If there is another gas appliance after your 3-way, does it get sufficient gas flow such that if operates correctly?

Assuming gas is flowing to 2a and/or 2b, then...
3) I assume there is a thermocouple (knowing the answer question 1 above will help). It will be located in the burner assembly so that it stays hot as long as gas is being burned. If the thermocouple doesn't stay hot enough, it will shut off the gas flow to the 3-way's burner. It is possible that the thermocouple has shifted out of position, hence it doesn't stay hot enough and will shut off gas to the burner assembly. Most systems with a thermocouple allow you to override the thermocouple by pressing and holding in the gas supply knob. This is to allow the flame to heat the thermocouple enough so as not to shut off the flow of gas.
3a) Does the gas continue to flow, and the flame burn while you keep the knob depressed? If so, I would suspect a bad, or mis-located thermocouple.
3b) If you can't keep the flame lit while depressing the knob, then I suspect some kind of blockage in the gas supply line and/or the burner assembly.

[camelracer]

This is something that can probably be fixed with a pencil.

[chnlisle]

Ed,
I appreciate any help I can get

1) What brand Norcold
2) Do you know the routing There's a 2 burner butit's hard to tell if it in front or behind the refer. It does however work fine.

Assuming gas is flowing to 2a and/or 2b, then...
3) I assume there is a thermocouple
3a) Does the gas continue to flow, and the flame burn while you keep the knob depressed? Yes
3b) If you can't keep the flame lit while depressing the knob, then I suspect some kind of blockage in the gas supply line and/or the burner assembly. Stays lit while depressing the knob but goes out when released even after holding it for as much as 10 minutes.