188 replies to this topic

[BluesideUp]

This pic explains my rationale, if that's possible. I really did not want to buy new and had my eye on two used 8.5 's, one in Montana and the other in Idaho which would have worked on the 9'.4" flatbed with a swing rear spare tire mount. But then there were ladder issues

The 11' was in Kentucky and a day away from Georgia, a lot more convenient so I made an offer which the owner accepted. Original March 2010 invoice from Alaskan was $28,422

That meant I had to build a 2 ' extension and with a tire rack I would be close to 3' and still needed to hang a couple of bikes so I just decided to go 4', the tire goes underneath, a13" inch deck to get in or out of the Camper with 2 steps street side etc. 

A little Rube Goldberg but….

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Edited by BluesideUp, 18 November 2013 - 07:59 PM.

[BluesideUp]

Aluminum vs Steel Rationale. Aluminum is 3 times lighter than steel but steel is 3 times stronger. I was not particularly happy about going with a steel flatbed but I no longer had my aircraft salvage business leasehold and equipment at Opa-Locka airport so not only was money an issue but so was logistics. If I had started with just a chassis cab and my scrap yard I could have had a custom aluminum flatbed fabricated, shipped and installed for under $5k but I did not due to time constraints. I just wanted to get on the road this winter in the south and head more northerly come spring, so I elected to buy a stock commercial 3500 HD 4 X 4 with a gooseneck flatbed that weighs 1,250 lb., + - 400 for the extention add the chassis cab and I am at 8,550 plus 2,200 camper dry weight to be a gross dry of 10,750 lb. or wet at 11,750. 13,300 is the max so while I am within weight limits by 1550 but we will see what the scales say. I am still carrying an extra 1,000 lb. of steel which will cost me in gas BUT under my current scenario I am saving $5,000 which is worth 1,500 USG in gas

Edited by BluesideUp, 25 November 2013 - 01:22 PM.

[BluesideUp]

Slowly but surely.

 

1.Headache rack reduced to a headboard which open up the rear cab window for a slider and access to the camper.

 

2. The rear panel for lights and license plate holder under construction.

 

3. The rear panel and deck tack welded.

 

4. The steps installed. (needs some drain holes)

 

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Edited by BluesideUp, 20 November 2013 - 03:56 PM.

[Rusty]

put a 2" receiver on the front of the truck and fit a bike rack there...works like a silver dollar...and they're out of the way for access to the camper.  I've got a 4 bike Master lock bike rack that I modified a bit for clearances.  Had it to Canada on the ferries and across the plains to Utah/Wyoming...no problems

Edited by Rusty, 20 November 2013 - 04:59 AM.

[BluesideUp]

Thanks, I will remember that. I am starting to think about batteries and charging by solar power vs a small generator and some extra propane and have started reading up on a thread posted here about solar to see if I can get a better education. Despite being a former pilot/mechanic I know just about enough to start an electrical fire

[Rusty]

here ya go

Edited by Rusty, 21 November 2013 - 12:19 AM.

[BluesideUp]

Well all the fabrication is finished. Just need it to stop raining and the humidity to lessen so the paint shop can acid wash the steel, prime and apply an undercoat then matching finish which appears to be an industrial imron.

We fabricated a frame using  2 x 2 x 1/4 angle iron for the camper to sit in. The frame has 13 pieces of 6 " x 1/4" flat bar welded  at each attach point where a counter sunk stainless 3/8 x 1.5" bolt will secure the frame through the flat bed with fiber locknuts.

This frame raises the camper 1/2" off of the steel flat bed so that air can circulate and any water can drain. I will lay a couple of beads of what is basically roof tar on each inside of the angle iron so the weight of the camper will push it out making for a watertight seal to prevent any wood rot from water seeping in between camper and frame which has 1/4" horizontal clearance

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Edited by BluesideUp, 22 November 2013 - 10:51 PM.

[Rusty]

Nice job....a little white picket fence across the back and you're home  ...I like the stairs...always an issue and so many solutions...a good one there

 

Might be a good idea to coat the underside of the camper with some sort of sealer to avoid any condensation issues off the steel....not sure if it would become an issue but it looks like a fairly permanent mounting...one shot of something may be worth while protection for that 11' beauty.

 

Well done, I like the way you think....BTW....2000 hours in KC130F's here...along time ago

[BluesideUp]

I must be reading your mind. Looked all over for a good sealer and settled on a product called Restore for wood decks.

Pricey but you get 2 gallons and I used close to  one on 2 coats of bottom & side paint. Almost thicker than Molasses in winter but definitely the right product for this sort of application.

I did not like the roller that came with it because the finish looked like knock down so I got a short nap that I used after brush stroking the angles.

I was able to cover joints that got missed during manufacturing and some pretty good gouges  just forward of the bottom tin.

Also noticed some joint separation on the left hand rear area 6" inches in from the side running forward from the tin for about 8-10 inches. 

Sort of validates my impression that the bottom structural strength of the camper runs along the outer area 3" on the side and bottom and my logic behind creating a 2" x  2" angle frame to sit the camper in.

Yup it is a semi permanent mount and right before its mounted I have 5 tubes of "leak stopper" to go on the angle frame. It will be messy and squirt out everywhere but thats what I want.

The bed and frame got an acid wash yesterday afternoon, then it rained last night and why it looks white but I think we are good to go for paint and undercoat tomorrow after prepping.

I have not worked through the tie down yet. I do not like how the jack pads were installed with just washers and no backing plates, you can see the bow. Too much stress on camper.

Initially I was going to just rotate jack pads so the pad face sat inboard and tie down from there to stainless eyelets mounted on the flat bed but now I will buy more eyelets and stainless exterior and interior mounting plates. Stronger and less stress ( I think)

 

I was in UH-1B,C gunships in a time long ago in a Galaxy far, far away.

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Edited by BluesideUp, 24 November 2013 - 07:14 PM.

[Rusty]

we're both lucky to be here...huey's...I know the "whop-whop" well

 

to come out of it and end up in an Alaskan.....must have been doing something right