188 replies to this topic

[BluesideUp]

Yeah I asked about the diaper, I was discrete and asked if it was a factory mod. The owner had her on a open flatbed so it was some sort off bubble aluminum foil wrap that he thought might help with insulating the camper. I asked him to pull it but there are a lot staples still leftover. The Alaskan website has been the best source for me, there were two others but in the NW

The certificate of origin signed by Bryan states 11' COFD 2160 lb. which is a little heavier than I thought since a 10' is listed at 1640 on TCM.

Found a local fabricator who is going to quote the flat bed work so I have put Turner Machine  Shop in Ft. Pierce on hold.

Working through a tie down set up. I am leery of blind drilling through the floor to through bolt on 2 x 4's because I have no idea where the pex tubing runs.

So I am thinking about some form on angle iron frame, secured to the bed to sit her in then separate tie downs to hold her in it. Even thought about securing the frame with 6-8 heavy duty 2 part Lord mounts to provide come cushion.

Any feed back is always appreciated. I like to say that my mind is sometimes like a dangerous neighborhood, not a good place to go alone.

[Rusty]

Alaskan may have a pex pattern they use for the tubing which may give you some clearances...they've been a great help with a few guys here.  Bryan is registered on WTW as well....I think he is Mr. Alaskan if I'm not mistaken.

 

I can relate with the mind issue....left alone in a small room we can be dangerous...I use that as an excuse for fishing...keeps me focused....

[BluesideUp]

Bryan has been very helpful. Since its my day car for the moment I have been getting a lot of questions.

Next week I will get the platform / steps / spare storage extension fabricated and the headache rack cut down from 36" to 16". That will allow the camper to come forward 2 - 3"and permit rear window access to the Alaskan.

Will just build a simple aluminum 2 x 2 1/4 frame to fit Alaskan then bolt it every16" to the flatbed diamond plate, insert the Alaskan & tie her down to the bed.

We have a lot of Parks here in Fl. so I am itching to start visiting during the week and spend the weekends at home as I get acclimated to my rig

Edited by BluesideUp, 08 November 2013 - 11:28 PM.

[BluesideUp]

Bryan, as always came though with a picture of the pex tubing. Blind drilling would be asking for it

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[Rusty]

Ugh.....asking for it is right....

 

maybe next time they'll leave a 3-5" border for just what you're going to do......that amount of missed coverage won't make any difference in a small space like that. 

 

I'm hoping there is a removable bottom??...

 

could you provide the specs on the heating unit?...and where they put it?

[BluesideUp]

You are looking at the bottom of the Alaskan upside down. No removable bottom. I believe it was spray insulated then the bottom 4 x 8's installed.

The LH side of the Thetford picture is where the supply and return lines enter into the Thetford cabinet area.

Note that the outside of the camper floor which is actually under the cabinets is heated first and the center last, which is why the first owner said that while he could feel the effect of the pex it was not heating as well as he expected in Colorado and Yellowstone. My plumber agrees with how Bryan installed it but I disagree. Seems like a waste of energy to heat the inside of cabinets before the inside of the camper. Keep the core warm first

The propane heater is mounted in the Thetford area and is accessed from the outside just after of the refrigerator access area on the rear RH side.

The white insulated casing for the heater and a pre charged bottle can be seen on the inside pic. It is unsecured as is the wiring run for the pump which has an inline switch.

As a aviation guy I do not like loose stuff that can beat itself to death and or electrical runs that can get snagged up in something that is stowed and pulled out so I will secure and clean it up

The Thermostat is located on the LH forward settee bulkhead. I will look at the heater data plate for specs when it quits raining.

My fabricator purchased about $600 in materials for the 4' flat bed extension so hopefully the 10 x 5' diamond plate will be bent to the same specs as the existing bed tomorrow and we will start that process. I will try to document

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Edited by BluesideUp, 13 November 2013 - 08:28 PM.

[Rusty]

After thinking about it...forced air heating systems throw heat to the perimeter of the building to heat the areas closest to the cold walls, even as to place registers under windows.   By first heating the outside walls of the camper you're fighting the cold at a point nearest the source.  If you were to heat the center of the camper first, the water would be cool by the time it got to the coldest portion of the camper......the outside walls.  

 

I don't like loose things either...loose things rub and wear holes and fray wires.....tight wiring, tight ship...plumbing as well

[BluesideUp]

Good point. Bryan got back to me about the insulation. They put in a couple layers of foil bubble wrap, probably like the "diaper"  then the plywood. 

[BluesideUp]

The heater is a SW4P made by Suburban manufacturing, tank capacity 4 USG, working press 150 psi, 9000 BTU, Recovery 7.5 USG/HR at 100F rise. Just a dedicated hot water heater and pump to push heated anti-freeze around

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Edited by BluesideUp, 15 November 2013 - 11:23 PM.

[BluesideUp]

The second pic is of the curb side of the spare tire box which will sit under the 4' flatbed extension. The tire box will have a locking access panel curbside.

The first pic is street side and you can see the 4' flatbed extension upside down on the bed and if you look at the left hand side of the pic you will see where the structural support members that are welded to the diamond plate do not go the full width. That is for the 2 step cut out.

Rear departure angle is already an issue due to the commercial grade hitch assembly. The hitch assembly mounting flanges bolts to the frame and also serve to secure the flat bed.

There is a"flying bar" that runs under the hitch parallel to the rear bumper and the departure angle is 18 degrees from the bar. I am not sure of  its purpose, prevent a rotation that drags the second fuel tank which is 40 gallons and or addition hitch plate support.

I will revisit this after the camper is married up to the flatbed and the SRW conversion is done because I don't want to be going off hardstand or flat ground on dually's

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Edited by BluesideUp, 24 November 2013 - 09:52 AM.