Custom build - 1982 grandby ghost

If you have the DC-DC charger, the wires to the camper/fiver connector are going to be too small for charging, but it will be fine for clearance. You could also run rear camera power from the clearance circuit. The Anderson connection is your best solution for charging.
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
If you have the DC-DC charger, the wires to the camper/fiver connector are going to be too small for charging, but it will be fine for clearance. You could also run rear camera power from the clearance circuit. The Anderson connection is your best solution for charging.
Yes I will have DC-DC charger. I have the 360deg cameras so I'll have to plug into that plug when I remove the tailgate, I know it takes a special camera/cord, TBD if I would mount that extra camera on the camper or by the license plate.

ski3pin said:
Oh boy, after many years another excellent pods8 build! Thank you and best of luck with your project.
;) Like the phoenix that burned up in flames I need some redemption (and another camper) haha. Between busy life, licking wounds, young kids, etc. I needed some time before stepping back into the batters box.
 
if u take the camper off the truck, and remover and reattach the tailgate - it might be nicer to have backup camera mtd to the camper.
even though aftermarket cameras are good, i liked the factory camera in tailgate better - and it was a bit of a pia to crawl under and change from my license plate camera to the factory tailgate one.
go
 
pods8 said:
Yes I will have DC-DC charger. I have the 360deg cameras so I'll have to plug into that plug when I remove the tailgate, I know it takes a special camera/cord, TBD if I would mount that extra camera on the camper or by the license plate.

;) Like the phoenix that burned up in flames I need some redemption (and another camper) haha. Between busy life, licking wounds, young kids, etc. I needed some time before stepping back into the batters box.
Be real careful when ordering your camera. I just sent two “plug and play” cameras back to the vender because they plugged, but didn’t play. The 360° camera on my truck is connected by a coax connector, and if the camera is not connected to the truck, it’s the purple screen of death.

Camera Solution does offer a coax connected camera ($411.xx) that is reported to work.
 
I was fitting up the two main pieces of the floor pack (wings and the vertical portion) against the frame to check fitment at lunch. I can see I've got some warping here and there from the additional welding so I'll see about bending some things back closer to plumb. I may crack some welds in the process so I'll need to keep an eye on that and touch things up. I could build the floor pack out of plumb but I'd rather do that as a last resort.

Wandering Sagebrush said:
Be real careful when ordering your camera. I just sent two “plug and play” cameras back to the vender because they plugged, but didn’t play. The 360° camera on my truck is connected by a coax connector, and if the camera is not connected to the truck, it’s the purple screen of death.

Camera Solution does offer a coax connected camera ($411.xx) that is reported to work.
Yeah I've read a bit into it to know some of those issues but haven't deep dived yet. I have this part number in my notes to look into/verify, its a $60 camera which isn't too bad. HC3Z-19G490-X The cable (https://www.ebay.com/itm/133219449105) is $10-20ish. EDIT nevermind.

Luckily on my 2022 I don't get the purple screen when my camera is unplugged, I just loose 90deg of my 360deg. I have heard its an issue on the newer ones though.
 
Replying to your reply: yes, shoot me an email or however this forum allows communication on the side.

When I offered tools, I was thinking of the 18ga stapler, but there are other tools that I found valuable, especially during the electrical install (I put in a whole new system with Li battery, solar and Victron everything). Having really nice strippers, crimpers and soldering eqpt was key. After you bury that wiring in the ceiling you don't want to have to worry if it's good or not!

I never did a build post because I didn't feel I was breaking any new ground. Pokybro and Morrisey pretty much covered everything that I did. Here's a pic of the outside though.

https://imgur.com/a/oiwPNKK

I've gone through most of what you will be doing so if you need any help, reach out. I'm in Arvada so we're almost neighbors.
 

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Serat said:
Replying to your reply: yes, shoot me an email or however this forum allows communication on the side.

When I offered tools, I was thinking of the 18ga stapler, but there are other tools that I found valuable, especially during the electrical install (I put in a whole new system with Li battery, solar and Victron everything). Having really nice strippers, crimpers and soldering eqpt was key. After you bury that wiring in the ceiling you don't want to have to worry if it's good or not!

I never did a build post because I didn't feel I was breaking any new ground. Pokybro and Morrisey pretty much covered everything that I did. Here's a pic of the outside though.

https://imgur.com/a/oiwPNKK

I've gone through most of what you will be doing so if you need any help, reach out. I'm in Arvada so we're almost neighbors.
I sent you a PM with my email and cell. I likely have most of the tools you're chatting about but I'm all ears if you got something unique. Might be nice to meet up and look over how you did your camper and I can hammer out some questions on the fly.
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
@Serat, your camper looks beautiful. Nice work! :)
Serat, I second Wandering Sagebrush, the outside of your camper looks awesome and very well done! Would love to see a few more pics outside, and inside.

Love seeing these builds, especially when you know all the thought, planning and effort to see them through!


Keep up the great work Pods8, take lots of pics, you’ll be glad you did.
 
PokyBro said:
Keep up the great work Pods8, take lots of pics, you’ll be glad you did.
I am, I don't post everything. Current status is the last vertical portion of the floor pack I need to cut port holes in and then glue/staple on. Floor and the little extension wings (wider than a sheet of plywood) are next.

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Okay floor pack is generally installed, I'll add runners to it but I'm gonna epoxy the whole bottom first (maybe glass it too, I forget how much I have left) so that wood is all very well sealed. Due to my follies with my prior composite project I have alot of epoxy on hand still so I'm gonna use it and a reoccurring thing is stuff is gonna get coated in epoxy! SO I brushed epoxy on the perimeter of the floor pieces that would be covered by the aluminum and let that set overnight before I installed it all. I scuffed both the epoxy surface and also the aluminum and laid down a bead of sika construction adhesive before putting in a bunch of 2" screws (I have doubled up 1x1 on all the perimeter so I could run longer screws for more grab). My goal here is a floor pack that never rots so who cares if you can't ever remove it, haha.

Won't be much visual progress for a bit because I plan to flush router/sand all edges that are overhanging, probably 1/4" round over the sharp edges, at minimum fiberglass the joints and if I have lots of glass left (I don't remember) I'll put a layer down across the whole bottom. Then I'll put on the stringers which will also be coated (I wanted coating below them). And then work on finishing coats. Again I have leftover materials but TBD if they are all good, if they are I'll put down 2 part epoxy primer and 2 part bedliner.

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goinoregon said:
so, how many folks does it take to turn that camper frame over ??
The raw frame alone when I flipped it over to rework it was easily done with 2 folks. TBD Now that I’ve added a bunch of plywood, we’ll find out!

I would assume 4 would be best to control the speed of rolling it over. Might get away with 3, two to start the lift, one to hold at the balancing point, repositioning bodies to lower the weight down so it doesn’t slam on the side it’s flipped onto. Repeat one more time.
 
Making 60"x80" plywood for my oversized cabover. I could have paid $$$ for a 5'x10' sheet of 3/4" but I opted to get three sheets of 1/2" 5'x5' and scarf joint (long tapered interface) them together for less money and I will create a sandwich panel with 1/2" skins (and some wood ribs) and 1" of foam insulation. That'll make for a stiff and insulated extended cabover bottom.

I'm making this right now because I might as well epoxy/glass this at the same time I am in that mode with the floorpack, also probably best I fit this into the cabover before building the roof to make sure nothing gets out of alignment later.

Anyways, long joint prebbed, then I brushed on raw epoxy and let that soak in a few minutes while I added wood flour to the remained epoxy to thicken it up. Spread that over the joint, once the sheets were aligned I used a couple brad nails to make sure they didn't slip when squeezing the joint and I stacked cement blocks onto it.

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I'm working on my cabover portion, decided I want to build and glass that before glassing the bottom so I know what I have left to work with. Also ideally I'll paint both at the same time.

It dawned on me I didn't do myself any favors but having that C channel main beam all installed in the bottom already, it'll take some finagling when the time comes.
 
Got the cabover portion assembled with the internal wood structure and foam, if you're wondering about the spacing I just capitalized on the foam board being prescored at 16" and 8" and figured why not. I also landed one stringer over the scaft joint to stiffen that section and fire narrow crow staples through it. I still plan to fiberglass the exterior before top coating.

Also I have been working on some brackets I plan to send out for fab (the cost of materials & time doesn't pencil vs sending out). I've modeled camper brackets like the newer FWC ones and was thinking I'd just use the same arrangement on my truck bed.

For the bent brackets and backer plate in the camper I was just thinking 1/8" stainless which seems like it'd be plenty stiff (can anyone comment on the current FWC ones, are they thicker?). For the backer plates under my aluminum truck bed I sized them so lengthwise they overlap the flanges of crossmembers on each side, I was thinking 1/4" aluminum for those. Probably overkill but very unlikely to stress the aluminum bed.

In unhappy news 1+" hail decided to swing through my neighborhood so my truck has some worts now that are a bit larger than my pragmatic nature can just waive off so an insurance claim is in my future there.

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ooh, sux about the hail. Nice work on the cabover bottom. Insulation is a VERY good idea. Remind me where the room is coming from to beef up the cabover section so much? You added C-Channel to make it "thicker/deeper?"
 
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