183 replies to this topic

[mobilelists]

A component source I like to use for "true" Anderson connectors is Powerwerks. For the 120 connectors they have a list of cable gauge options:

https://powerwerx.co...rs-sb120-120amp

[Gumbus]

Thanks Tacoma, that is the sort of thing that would mount the Anderson SB120 cleanly.

 

Where do the rest of you adventurers insert the CB on the house battery side of the DC2DC power line. Meaning do you sequence DC/DC charger - CB - Battery or CB - DC/DC charger - battery?

[Vic Harder]

There are mounts for an Anderson SB120, such as the one below:

 

https://www.amazon.c...155551245&psc=1

 

The description calls it a "Trailer Vision 120A Battery Quick Connector Protective Cover Mount Fits SB 120 Gauge 6-2 AWG 120 Amp Anderson Plug Assembly"

 

I like this, but it still does not address getting the wires through the sheet metal of the truck box.  

 

I used a pair of these for the bulkhead connection - Amazon.com: Moroso 74144 Red Thru Panel Connector : Automotive

[Vic Harder]

Thank you Vic for this very informative thread. With respect to running 4awg from the truck batt to the Victron Orion Tr Smart 30A and 100AH LiFe battery:

 

2. So many differing opinions where to put the CB near the camper battery (LiFe). Do you recommend the CB (80A) between the Batt and the DC/DC charger?

 

My DCDC charger is quite close, about 3' of 6g wire.  I do not protect that wire with a fuse or circuit breaker.  My wires are quite visible to me, and there are no metal bits where it could easily wear through and short.  YMMV.

[craig333]

I like this, but it still does not address getting the wires through the sheet metal of the truck box.  

 

I used a pair of these for the bulkhead connection - Amazon.com: Moroso 74144 Red Thru Panel Connector : Automotive

I thought a simple grommet was adequate. Now I need to upgrade. Someday

[Vic Harder]

I thought a simple grommet was adequate. Now I need to upgrade. Someday

LOL, I used a simple grommet for years. 

[ntsqd]

I met a guy back in '96 (!) at the NESEA Tour del Sol who was using Lithium based batteries in his company's EV's then. He had gotten into the gas cloud created when one of those battery packs over-heated and he spent months in the hospital. I met him nearly a year after he got out of the hospital and he looked and walked like a Polio survivor.

If a Lithium battery over-heats you do not want to breathe those gasses. Lithium is a heavy metal, something that the human body has no good method of getting out of it's system. Look at the whole lead paint debacle, and the origin behind the "Mad Hatter" stories from Mercury ingestion.

Vent the box.

Edited by ntsqd, 07 December 2022 - 03:45 AM.

[Wallowa]

I met a guy back in '96 (!) at the NESEA Tour del Sol who was using Lithium based batteries in his company's EV's then. He had gotten into the gas cloud created when one of those battery packs over-heated and he spent months in the hospital. I met him nearly a year after he got out of the hospital and he looked and walked like a Polio survivor.

If a Lithium battery over-heats you do not want to breathe those gasses. Lithium is a heavy metal, something that the human body has no good method of getting out of it's system. Look at the whole lead paint debacle, and the origin behind the "Mad Hatter" stories from Mercury ingestion.

Vent the box.

 

 

Not all Li battery chemistry is the same...from what I read the LiFePO4 batteries do not suffer from ignition or gas loss...of course I could be wrong...

[ntsqd]

It's not worth the risk. He was seriously screwed up and would be for the rest of his life.

 

Let's look at it differently; what do you gain from not sealing and venting the battery box? They still need to be somewhere accessible. That puts them at or near an outer wall somewhere. Even if you're not accessing them from the outside the higher priority needs of the floor plan will still have them around the edges somewhere.

[Wallowa]

It's not worth the risk. He was seriously screwed up and would be for the rest of his life.

 

Let's look at it differently; what do you gain from not sealing and venting the battery box? They still need to be somewhere accessible. That puts them at or near an outer wall somewhere. Even if you're not accessing them from the outside the higher priority needs of the floor plan will still have them around the edges somewhere.

 

 

I concur...it always comes down to % of assumption of risk by the individual ..and as stated at least my '16 Hawk is vented by FWC; which in the world of lead/acid batteries is sufficient but un-needed for my BB LiFePO4 battery....I take exception to any government entity telling me I must seal and vent the battery box and I have yet to see the Oregon statute that declares that I must seal and vent a Li battery box...in my world it is about the individual deciding...

 

In the end we all make our own choices; or a least we should.