85 replies to this topic

[Vic Harder]

Progress is so rewarding!  

 

Jon R's comments are bang on too.  The only suggestion I would make is to use 4AWG wire instead of 6AWG.  Just doing the math the 6AWG might be borderline for a sustained 40A (worst case) draw. Will 6AWG be fine?  Likely.  Just sayin'

[Jon R]

My 6 awg recommendation is based on my assumption that my wire run is about as long as it could be for any slide-in FWC, with my cclb and the Grandby FD having the battery compartment and the Orion in the rear corner. My Orion 12/12-30 with 6 awg does not cycle to check engine running at any time (which is what you are trying to avoid). My truck has a smart alternator. The highest current I have seen the Orion draw is 35 amps. I think 6 awg is adequate, and it is the maximum size wire the Orion connectors will take. You can’t go wrong with 4 awg, but I don't think it’s necessary and has some additional installation hassles and cost. If the OP would like a careful measurement of my wire length and voltage loss I can do that given some notice.

[jclifb]

I am likely going to add the DC-DC charger at some point in a couple of months before we head out on our 8 week trip to Banff.

 

I'll plan on drawing out the system for some advice here before ordering/installing! 

[Beach]

In responce to JonR's question. " I BELIEVE the solar wires coming from the solar charger, if you have one from the factory, are connected directly to the battery so the solar system can charge the battery even when the silver kill switch is off (can someone with factory solar please confirm this?)." This is how my 05 Hawk is wired with the factory panel.

[jclifb]

In responce to JonR's question. " I BELIEVE the solar wires coming from the solar charger, if you have one from the factory, are connected directly to the battery so the solar system can charge the battery even when the silver kill switch is off (can someone with factory solar please confirm this?)." This is how my 05 Hawk is wired with the factory panel.

 

Mine is pre-wired for solar but I am not sure if they are connected directly to the battery or not. I think FWC did a video that explained that there is a loom of wires in the cabinet you need to hook the solar controller to... 

 

Will wait for a more seasoned response as well though.

[Vic Harder]

In either case, I can't imagine that the solar wiring is "connected directly to the battery"  There has to be a Solar controller in there.... 

[Jon R]

In either case, I can't imagine that the solar wiring is "connected directly to the battery" There has to be a Solar controller in there....

Yes, sorry. That is what I meant - solar charger connected to the battery.

On my 2021 Grandby, for which I did not order factory solar panels or charger, the factory wires from the exterior panel connectors were routed to the battery compartment and coiled and secured. There was enough factory wire length I was able to route the factory panel wires directly to my Victron MPPT I installed in the battery compartment with no splice.

[jclifb]

Got the power all buttoned up I believe for now.

 

So I have it correctly, when I am unplugged I need the knob on the right side of the electrical cabinet to be pulled out so that I am running from battery power and pushed in when I am plugged in to run on shore power only?

 

[Jon R]

The knob needs to be pulled out to connect your battery to the fuse panel main bus for either drawing from the battery or for charging the battery from the IP22. If it’s pushed in, the IP22 will just serve as a power supply and the battery will be isolated from the fuse panel and charger.

Edited by Jon R, 13 March 2023 - 10:32 PM.

[pvstoy]

The knob needs to be pulled out to connect your battery if you want the battery to be charging. If it’s pushed in, the IP22 will just serve as a power supply and the battery will be isolated from the fuse panel and charger.

Yes... concur